7-11 Onigiri 🍙

Rodd told me recently that 7-11 Australia has been bought out by the Japanese version, and that as a result we were likely to finally get some of their awesome food here in NSW. Yesterday I popped into the one at the corner of Pitt and Bathurst in the Sydney CBD and happily found all three flavours!

Onigiri is definitely my favourite convenience store food in Japan. While I’ve had good onigiri in Sydney, it’s never been quite right. I really like the texture of the crispy seaweed, but none of the fancy places have that. They’re always damp and soft due to the moisture of the rice. The only way to keep them crisp is to use the special wrapper that keeps the seaweed from touching the rice until right before you eat it.

So I was thrilled to see that the 7-11 onigiri has the special wrapper!

7-11 Onigiri

I tried the Spicy Cooked Tuna today. Even after spending the night in the fridge, the seaweed was still satisfyingly crispy when I pulled off the wrapper.

Crispy seaweed

Taste-wise, I felt it was pretty good… though the amount of filling could’ve been better. I’m sure an onigiri expert could find more fault, but this ticked my boxes.

Inside the onigiri

My only real complaint is the cost. At $3.70 each, these are basically double what they cost in Japan! It’s still cheaper than the fancy ones I’ve had elsewhere in Sydney, but it grates knowing they’re so much cheaper elsewhere.

Now if they could just bring out the Tuna Mayo flavour!!

Custom Bluesky and Mastodon usernames with your own domain

I recently went through the process of setting up custom handles/aliases for myself using my domain name on Bluesky and Mastodon. I figure I’ll share the steps here in case anybody else with a similar setup (WordPress on Amazon Lightsail) wants to do the same.

Bluesky

Simply follow the instructions that Bluesky have provided here. In Step 5, you will need to add a TXT record to your domain DNS. If you use Amazon Lightsail, click on the Domains & DNS option and then select the relevant DNS zone (in my case, web-goddess.org).

Lightsail console DNS zone

Then click on the DNS records tab and click the + Add record button.

Lightsail console DNS zone

Change the record type to TXT record and then put in the name and response provided by you by Bluesky. (The “host” is the “Record name,” and the “value” is the “Responds with.”) Click save.

Adding a new TXT record

Wait a little bit — in my experience, 30 seconds is usually sufficient — and then click that Verify DNS Record button in Bluesky. And then you’re done!

In my case, you can now find me at @web-goddess.org on Bluesky.

Mastodon

Mastodon is a slightly more involved process, and it doesn’t change your official server username but rather gives you an alias that you can give out. In my case, my current Mastodon account is @web_goddess@aus.social. However, if I give out an alias instead, then it doesn’t matter if I change servers in the future — you’ll still be able to find me. I was inspired by these posts by Phil Nash and Maarten Balliauw for how to do it.

First, open up a new browser tab and go to this URL, substituting your own Mastodon account values in there:

https://{instance}/.well-known/webfinger?resource=acct:{username}@{instance}

So in my case, I went to https://aus.social/.well-known/webfinger?resource=acct:web_goddess@aus.social. What you’ll get back is a blob of text (JSON). Copy that and set it aside for the moment.

Then go to the Lightsail console and click on the little terminal icon to Connect using SSH to your instance.

Lightsail console

A window with a terminal will appear.

Lightsail terminal

Now you need to go to where the WordPress files are stored for your site. Type in this command in the terminal and hit enter.

cd stack/wordpress/

Important note: The path above is for one of the newer WordPress Bitnami instances. If you have an older instance, the path to where your WordPress files are stored might be different.

Then you’ll need to create a new directory called “.well-known.” (Note the dot in front of the name.) Type in this command and hit enter.

mkdir .well-known/

Then go into that directory. Type in this command and hit enter.

cd .well-known

Now you will need to make a special file called webfinger. Type in this command and hit enter to open a text editor in the terminal.

nano webfinger

This is where you will paste in the blob of JSON text you copied from your Mastodon server. Copy and paste it straight into the editor, and then hit CTRL-X to exit.

The editor will ask if you want to “Save modified buffer?” Type Y for Yes, leave the name as webfinger, and hit enter to save.

You can then exit the Lightsail terminal and close the pop-up window.

exit

If everything worked correctly, you should now be able to go to your own domain and receive the JSON blob back by substituting your domain in this address:

https://{yourdomain}/.well-known/webfinger

In my case, I went to https://www.web-goddess.org/.well-known/webfinger in a browser tab and verified that the JSON was returned.

And that’s it! What does this actually mean? It means I can tell people that my Mastodon username is @kris@web-goddess.org, and if they type that into a search box on Mastodon, it will point them to my official account.

Mastodon search

If I change servers in the future, I’ll just have to update the JSON blob with the correct values from my new Mastodon server, and people will continue to be able to find me from the alias.

New web-goddess theme!

I’ve been feeling like the site needed a new lick of paint, so I spent some time today installing and customising a new theme. I used the Björk theme from Anders Norén, who made my previous theme. My logo remains the awesome one that my friend Matt Hinrichs drew for me many years ago. I also decommissioned my old krishoward.org personal site, moving some of the relevant content here and then changing that domain to a redirect. Please let me know if you find any broken links or anything that looks weird!

Needlepoint Cushions with Mrs. Morris

Eighteen years ago, Mr. Snook’s grandmother (“Kathy-Nanny”) moved into a retirement village, and I was gifted one of her many needlepoint tapestries: a tasteful nude reclining with a whippet. If you don’t know much about needlepoint, it generally involves a heavy canvas with a picture printed on it that you then embroider over with slanted stitches. Many of them are based on fine art, and Kathy-Nanny’s was titled “Venus d’aprés Titien.” (It’s clearly based on “Venus and Musician,” just with the leering musician removed.) It was in a heavy ornate frame, and while it was well-executed and beautiful work, it didn’t really… go with any of our other stuff. I put it in a closet for safekeeping and it basically sat in storage for the better part of two decades.

A couple months ago, we moved back into the house after our extensive renovation, and I decided it was time to bring Venus back to life. Rather than hang her on the wall, I thought that turning her into a pair of cushions might be the best way to go.

First, I had to get her out of the frame. Underneath I found the tapestry wrapped around a piece of plywood and stapled all the way around. There were hundreds of staples, each of which had to be pulled out by hand.

Tapestry over plywood

Thankfully Mr. Snook helped me. The staples were really dug into the edge, so I pried them loose enough for him to grab with a pair of pliers. It was back-breaking work.

Pulling staples

At last we had the tapestry free of the plywood. This is what it looked like from the reverse. Even on that side, you can see what a good job she did with the stitching.

Reverse of tapestry

Once I had it free, I rang up my friends at Morris & Sons. Mrs. Morris has sewn more needlepoint cushions than probably anyone in all of Australia, and she kindly offered to teach me how to do it. I met Mrs. M at her workshop, where we started by deciding on the backing fabric. We narrowed it down to these two velvets, and I decided to go with the more orangey-brown one.

Choosing velvet colours

Then her son Joseph helped me work out what size to make the cushions. We measured up and realised that if we simply sliced her in half, we’d get two very nearly square cushions out of it. They were both incredulous that I wanted to cut it in half, and Mrs. M couldn’t quite get over the fact that I’d have a cushion with just LEGS on it. But they were game for the experiment, so Joseph cut it up the middle.

Measuring up

Joseph also helped me cut appropriately sized pieces of the backing fabric, as well as slicing up many pieces to be used to create piping.

Cutting the background fabric

Then the real lessons began! I don’t want to give too many of her secrets away, but at a high level: Mrs. M first showed me how to piece the strips of velvet together into one very long strip, taking care to ensure the nap always went the right direction so it didn’t look or feel odd. Then I created meters and meters of piping, wrapping the strip around a long cord and sewing it down tightly. The Morrises let me use one of their industrial Singer machines, which took a bit of practice to get the hang of. It had a large foot pedal and a knee lever for controlling the presser foot.

Sewing piping

Next Mrs. M showed me how to sew the piping down around the border of each cushion top, with some special tricks for navigating the corners and for joining the ends up neatly at the bottom.

Attaching the piping

Next I put the backing fabric onto each cushion top, face-down, and pinned it around three sides tight against the piping (leaving the bottom open).

Pinning on the backing

Oh no, it’s time to insert the zipper! Mrs. M is a true legend and assured me that it was going to be much easier than I feared.

Zipper time!

I watched her closely as she showed me her method. I took lots of photos and notes to try to capture the trickier bits!

Mrs. M sewing a zipper

First we sewed one side, and then the other. Hey, I was getting the hang of this!

Sewing the zipper

I managed to insert both zippers without too much trouble, only having to unpick one or two bits where I got a bit too close to the zipper teeth.

Completed zipper

Then it was time to sew the other three sides of the cushion. The bits at each end of the zipper were the trickiest part, and I had to redo them a couple times. The rest was smooth sailing though.

Sewing the other three sides

After turning it rightside-out, I had a finished cushion cover! The legs made me smile immediately. I knew this was going to turn out even better than I’d hoped.

Completed cushion cover

The final step was to sew custom-sized cushion inserts. Mrs. M showed me how to gauge the correct size and how to put them together. Each one took a fair bit of stuffing! The hardest part was then sewing the openings closed when they were so full and fluffy.

Stuffing the inserts

And here are the completed cushions! As you can tell, I was pretty stoked with how they turned out. It’s still obvious that they are part of the same picture, and I only lost a tiny bit due to cutting her in half.

Finished cushions

While I’m sure there are other needlepoint nudie cushions in the world, these are pretty special. They look spectacular on the new couch too! They got a big thumbs up from both Rodd and his sister.

Legs cushion  Lady cushion

If you want to make needlepoint cushions of your own, Morris & Sons is definitely the place to start. They have everything you need including tapestry kits with canvas and threads. They also offer a professional service to make up the finished cushions for you once you’ve finished with the embroidery, which is handy if you don’t have an industrial-strength sewing machine at home.

Thank you to Mrs. M and Joseph for all their help with these! I’m so pleased we’ve been able to keep one of Kathy-Nanny’s pieces alive in our new home. 🩷

Marimekko cushions for the new couch

I’m a big fan of the Finnish design house Marimekko. They’ve been making gorgeous fabric prints and homewares for 70+ years. The only problem is that their stuff can be very, very expensive (especially here in Australia). A few months back though they had a clearance sale, and I picked up a couple meters of the iconic Unikko print cotton at 40% off. Today I decided to use it to make a couple cushions for our new couch.

We already had a pair of old IKEA cushions with covers that were starting to fall apart. The feather inserts were still good though, so I removed the covers to see how they were constructed. They were rectangular — 59cm/23.25″ long by 37.5cm/14.75″ wide — with a lapped zipper along the bottom edge. I decided to make the new covers a little smaller so they’d feel a bit plumper. (They’d lost a couple feathers over the years!)

Old IKEA cushion

At this point Rodd was like, “So are you going to reuse the zippers?” I realised that was an excellent suggestion, so out came the seam ripper.

Unpicking a zip

Once I worked out what size I wanted the new covers to be, I added on a bit for seam allowance and then cut out 4 panels from my fabric. I then used my overlocker to finish all the raw edges.

Fabric panels

I’ve installed a few zippers in my time but I’m by no means an expert. I found this tutorial from The Sewing Directory to be really helpful. Once I had the zipper joining two panels together, it was very simple to sew around the other three sides.

Sewing the cushions

And here’s the finished cover showing the lapped zipper! Why yes, I did sew one side of the zip with red thread and one with white, thank you for noticing. 😂

Cushion cover with zip

Here’s a cushion in all its plump glory. To buy one would probably be like $90 AUD, so my version came out a fair bit cheaper. (That’s discounting my own labour though, which you should never do if you’re actually selling stuff you create!)

Cushion

Don’t they look lovely on the new couch? I might need to make some more…

New couch with Marimekko cushions

Craft Room IKEA Hack

In 2024 we embarked on a pretty major home renovation, and once we were moved back in I spent a lot of time thinking about how I wanted to set up my office. I knew that I wanted a dedicated sewing table where I could have both my sewing machine and overlocker set up, with all my tools and supplies in easy reach. I also wanted a cutting table (preferably height adjustable), and somewhere to set up the ironing board for a sewing session. I also needed storage for my fabric and wool.

In terms of assets I had an existing IKEA Bekant standing desk, which serves as my computer workstation but can also conveniently double as a cutting table. I have a large cutting mat that I leave on it, and I can pretty quickly clear away everything when I need to cut something big. I also have a rolling office chair. Beyond that, the room was a blank slate.

I did a lot of googling at what others had done, and I was very inspired by this Garage Workbench DIY. I realised that the IKEA Lagkapten/Alex desk combination was a good starting point, but it had one significant drawback — durability. The Lagkapten has a honeycomb core, and apparently it will sag over time if you put a lot of weight on it. (That’s why IKEA always show a center leg on any of the longer desks.) And guess what? Sewing machines are pretty heavy. I read a lot of posts about people using “stiffening rods” and such to try to reinforce them, but eventually realised it would be a lot simpler to just use an actual wooden desktop. Bunnings make a pre-finished timber panel that I realised would work perfectly. With all that in mind, I used SmartDraw to mock up the floorpan and see how everything would fit.

Office Floorplan

Once I had the plan, it was time to go shopping! Protip: before you make any major IKEA purchase, check to see if you’re able to access any discounts. We learned that Macquarie Bank sell IKEA gift cards at 6% off, which was a nice savings for not much effort.

Thankfully, we were able to find everything we needed. First step: protect the floor.

IKEA rug

I wanted to protect our lovely new wooden floors from the rolling wheels of my chair. This is the IKEA Vedbäk rug. It’s not real wool, but I don’t mind so much in here. We put out an underlay first to keep it from shifting around, and then unrolled the rug. I put some boards and boxes down on it overnight so help it flatten out.

Then it was time to start assembling.

Putting together Alex

I started with two Alex storage units. Here they are put together and set aside. I made sure that the door openings mirrored each other. The Alex units come with a panel with pre-drilled holes that you can use as the top or the bottom, depending on how you want to set them up. Here I made sure the holes were at the bottom. (You’ll see why in a bit.)

Assembled Alex units

I knew that I didn’t want to just rest the desktop on the units, but instead to bolt everything together so it would be rigid. Before I put the other two Alex units together, we wisely had the idea to use one of the bases to mark out holes for pre-drilling the desktop. We also attached the base plate for the Adils leg. (While I knew my desktop would be strong enough without it, I figured it wouldn’t hurt to have it. We pushed it as far back in the center as we could.)

Prepping the desktop

Here you can see Rodd marking the holes for drilling. The Alex unit bases have 4 holes, and we decided to use the inner set for securing the upper units (on the top side of the desktop), and the outer set for the lower units (on the bottom side of the desktop). That way the screws had no chance of hitting each other. We lined the base up flush with the back and edge of the worktop and used a pointy screwdriver to mark the spot.

Marking holes

Here’s Rodd drilling one of the holes. We worked out the depth needed based on our wood screws and the depth of the Alex base plate, and he put a piece of tape on the drill bit to show him how far to go.

Drilling

We also had the idea to put something in between the Alex units and the desktop, to add some cushioning and to protect the desktop a bit (in case we wanted to use it for something else in the future). I’m not really sure this step was needed, to be honest. But I bought some of IKEA’s Variera drawer liners and used the Alex bases to cut out appropriately sized pieces.

Cutting drawer liner

Here you can see one of the drawer liner pieces, ready for final assembly.

Drawer liner

For the bottom supports, I went with two of the Alex drawer units. For these, I made sure that the base with the holes was on the top since we’d be screwing into the desk. I was a little worried about how well they’d stand up to the weight we’d be putting on top (desktop plus another Alex unit). IKEA don’t really seem to recommend stacking them. I decided therefore that a little extra support couldn’t hurt. We bought a couple packs of these corner braces at Bunnings…

Corner braces

And I screwed them into each corner on the back of the Alex drawer units.

Reinforced corners with feet

You can also see that we purchased Eket feet to use on the bottom units. These are adjustable, so I knew that would help to level the whole thing given that the front would be sitting on the rug. Happily, the screws for the foot base plate didn’t run into the ones for the corner braces. Here’s one of the bottom units upside down. Important note: while you can use longer screws for the outer holes since they run down into the sides, you need to use pretty short ones for the inner one to avoid breaking through the base.

Eket foot plates

Hopefully this will help illustrate what I mean.

Illustrating screw depths

And now it’s finally time to start putting the thing together! We set up the bottom two Alex units, placed the drawer liners on top, and then placed the desktop on top of that. Then I reached up from the inside with a hex key to screw in the wood screws. (These are the ones that come with the Alex and would normally be used to attach it to the Lagkapten top.) I had to first poke through the drawer liner, of course, and then it was a bit of faffing about to get the holes exactly lined up with the ones we predrilled. But eventually I managed to get them screwed in. Remember, on the bottom we secured just the two outer holes, front and back.

Screwing the desktop to the Alex

Here’s what we had so far. So that’s two Alex drawer units on the bottom, each with reinforced corners (on the back side) and Eket adjustable feet underneath. The desktop is screwed to the top of each from inside the top of the Alex units (using the two outer holes). There’s also an Adil adjustable leg at the center back.

Secured desktop and bottom units

Next it was time to stack the upper Alex units. I put down my pre-cut drawer liners and then carefully placed the upper units. Again, I had to poke through the liner and then laboriously shift things around until I had the holes exactly lined up. But eventually I was able to get each one screwed down, this time using the two inner holes.

Screwing down the upper units

Here it is with one upper unit attached…

With one upper unit attached

…and now with both upper units attached and all the drawers inserted!

With both upper units attached

The space in between the upper units was perfect for two of the Skådis pegboards. We first used some of the connectors to mount them directly to the desktop…

With pegboard

…but I realised quickly that this wasn’t ideal. There was no opening for the power cords for my sewing machines, and because the pegboard was so low I really couldn’t make full use of it. So the Snook kindly broke out his hammer drill and helped me mount the pegboards directly to the wall.

Drilling the pegboard

And this is my favourite thing of all. I discovered that some nice person designed a sewing thread spool holder that fits the Skådis pegboards, and which can be 3D-printed. My awesome friend Bobbie printed a dozen of them for me, which allows me to store 60 spools of thread!

Spool holders

And here’s the end result! Raising the pegboard makes it much more useful, and allows me to run the power cords down the back of the desktop. My sewing machine sits on a special vibration mat that it came with, and the overlocker is sitting on a spare cutting mat. I picked up a couple Eket cubes off Facebook Marketplace that I simply stacked on top of the Alex to add some additional storage for all my prettiest wool skeins. I’ve also got a ring LED light that I can turn on to add light when I’m sewing. And the ironing board can be stored and set up on the left, with a power strip down at the bottom to plug in the iron.

Finished IKEA craft station

I bought a bunch of the different Skådis accessories to hang and store my tools. I’ve had a lot of fun figuring out the most efficient place to put things! I also organised my circular knitting needles by size into Ziplock bags, which I then threaded onto split key rings and hung from a hook. Very tidy!

Pegboard

The upper right Alex unit has my fabric stash, with scraps on the bottom and project-sized pieces on top. (Not pictured are the two giant boxes of old fabric that I donated to The Sewing Basket. 😬 I’m working on hoarding less stuff, and making sure that what I have is useful.)

Fabric stash

On the left is my stash of knitting wool and supplies. This is the utilitarian wool, while the prettier stuff is in the Eket boxes on display. (Again, I donated a bunch of old stuff to charity.)

Knitting stash

For the sake of completeness, I’ll show my desk as well. It’s got a large self-healing cutting mat, and on top of that I have a large gaming pad under my keyboard, mouse, and duckyPad. My Mac Mini sits on the bookshelves next to the desk, and I’ve got a USB dock in that corner where all my stuff is plugged in. When I want to use the desk as a cutting table, I can pretty quickly shove everything back in that corner and raise the desk up to a comfortable cutting height. Depending on how big a piece I’m cutting, I may not even need to move the monitor!

Desk

I also managed to fit in a Svenarum shelving unit alongside my desk. I especially like how it gets thinner towards the top, which helps feel like it’s not crowding the doorway too much. This allows me to show off my vintage sewing machines (the bottom two belonged to Rodd’s grandmother and mother), as well as my craft books and some of my Roald Dahl collection.

Bookshelves

And here’s the finished office/craft room! In the Alex drawers, I’ve got various sewing supplies all stored on the right side (buttons, trims, zipper, tracing paper, etc). On the left is general office and crafting supplies. I’ve got two plastic floor protectors over the rug that allow me to roll my chair easily from the desk to the craft station. I’m really happy with how it’s turned out. Together with the closet, I’ve got ample storage for all my projects and everything I need is within arm’s reach.

Finished craft room

Completed sewing project: Arkie shirt

Arkie shirtI knocked out a quick sewing pattern this week: a new Arkie shirt in some Liberty Tana Lawn I bought in Tokyo back in June. (This is the same pattern I used for the AWS Shirt last December.) I made the biggest size, but it’s fairly roomy and I think I could easily go down a size and still be fine. I think I did a decent job setting in the sleeves, even if I did use a million pins. 😂 I left off the front patch pockets, mostly because I didn’t think they’d add anything and you wouldn’t even see them with the busy print. For buttons, I just used four small pearlescent ones from my stash.

The thing I’m proudest of though is that for once I remembered to sew in a label! I’ve had these for ages and never used them before.

I also realised in the course of sewing the shirt that I had never changed the needles in my overlocker. I dug out the manual, started flipping through it, and realised that I’d never actually serviced the thing ever… in nine years. Yikes. After a quick trip to Spotlight for a new bottle of oil and a packet of needles, I got to work. I unthreaded the machine, removed the old needles, cleaned out all the dust and lint, oiled her up, and then rethreaded. I discovered that using all 4 threads is probably overkill for most of my sewing, so I cut it back to 3 and just a single needle. Once I had everything put back together, she was purring like a kitten! I also cleaned out the lint on my sewing machine. I’ll have to put in a recurring task to do this more often. 😬

Servicing the overlocker