Category: Uncategorized

  • Easter in Amsterdam šŸŒ·

    Easter in Amsterdam šŸŒ·

    With the four-day Easter weekend looming, we were trying to decide on a city to visit. “There’s a sleeper train to Amsterdam!” the Snook offered. That settled it. Amsterdam had long been on our list of cities to visit (I have a bucket list goal of hitting every one mentioned in Paul Kelly’s ode to Aussies in Europe), and I’ve always wanted to ride in a sleeper train. Time to visit the Netherlands!

    Schlafwagen

    The train – and I am not kidding – is the NightJet NJ420 from Innsbruck to Amsterdam. It has normal carriage cars, and then a couple in the middle that are the sleepers (“Schlafwagens”).

    Hallway

    We were greeted by a porter who led us down a very narrow hallway to our cabin.

    Our cabin

    It was about 10:30pm when we boarded the train in Munich, so the porter had already set it up for sleeping. There were two bunks, but theoretically there’s a third one that can fold down if needed.

    Picking our breakfast options

    Can you tell how excited I am? The first thing we needed to do was select our options for breakfast in the morning and give the bits of paper to the porter.

    Sink

    There is a tiny sink crammed into the corner where you could clean your teeth, but the bathroom was a shared one down the carriage. (Unfortunately there was a problem with the water on this journey, so the sink wasn’t working.)

    Chilling

    The train pulled out of Munich, and we kicked off our shoes to relax a bit. There was a bag on each bunk with slippers, a bottle of water, a snack, and some sparkling wine. The Snook had also cleverly brought a couple mini bottles of Schnapps…

    Schnapps

    Prost! We eventually decided it was time to go to sleep. I claimed the bottom bunk so the Snook clambered up the ladder to his berth.

    Ladder

    In terms of sleeping comfort, the bunks were just long enough that I could stretch out (I’m 5’10”, 178cm) but anybody taller would be a little cramped. The mattresses weren’t super thick, but for me the bigger issue was the pillows were very, very thin. Still, I did eventually fall asleep. The train does make a few stops during the night and the carriages aren’t soundproof, but I had my headphones playing white noise and it didn’t bother me. The biggest challenge was that since we were lying perpendicular to the train’s movement, whenever it would brake or accelerate you’d feel it. (That’s why the upper bunk has a net, to keep the Snook from rolling right out onto the floor!) Still, the sleeper was nicer than I expected and I definitely got more sleep than I ever have on a long haul flight.

    Brekkie

    In the morning we opened the window to find ourselves rolling through the Dutch countryside. The porter came by to help us fold up the beds and fold down a table for our breakfast.

    We pulled into Amsterdam at 10:30am, blinking in the sunlight and still wearing yesterday’s clothes. Time to find our hotel…

    Amsterdam Hbf

    We had left the booking until pretty late so the only place we could get a room was the fancy Marriott W. It wasn’t too far so we had a 15min walk through Amsterdam to get there. It’s actually two buildings across the street from each other, and we were in the “Exchange” building. Reception is up at the roof level, and there’s a pretty spectacular view from the terrace.

    Royal Palace

    The building on the right there is the Royal Palace of Amsterdam, and the brick one on the left is the Magna Plaza, formerly the main post office of Amsterdam and now a shopping mall.

    Raadhuisstraat

    That’s the view up Raadhuisstraat, which crosses several canals. You can see the Westerkerk church spire in the distance.

    On the roof terrace

    Our room wasn’t ready yet so we made our plans to explore the city. We decided to skip the museums and cannabis cafes on this trip, instead spending as much time as possible outside in the glorious Spring weather.

    Royal Palace

    The Royal Palace from ground level. It was originally built as the Town Hall of Amsterdam but was converted into a palace in the 19th century. It’s where Queen Beatrix was announced to the Dutch people in 1980.

    Dam Square

    Here’s the Snook in Dam Square, one of the most well-known spots in the city. That’s the National Monument in the distance.

    Beurs van Berlage

    This is the Beurs van Berlage building, which the Snook really liked. I think it was the clock.

    Oude Kerk

    This is the Oude Kerk (“Old Church”), Amsterdam’s oldest building. Rembrandt was a frequent visitor to the Oude Kerk and his children were all christened here.

    Canal

    Canal!! This is the view from the Oudekerksbrug (“Old Church Bridge”).

    More canal!

    This is looking north towards the Basilica of Saint Nicholas, the city’s primary Catholic Church.

    Canals

    I was entranced by the canals of Amsterdam. There are more than 100km of them (62mi), with 1500 bridges in the city.

    Cheese at the market

    You know what else I was entranced by? CHEESE.

    View from Blauwbrug

    This is actually the Amstel river as seen from the Blauwbrug (“Blue Bridge”). There are a LOT of houseboats in Amsterdam. There were also a lot of river cruises going up and down the river and canals too.

    Van Holland Stroopwafels

    We walked up the Kalverstraat, Amsterdam’s main shopping street. (Fun trivia: it’s the most expensive property on Dutch Monopoly!) There was a queue out the door at Van Holland Stroopwafels, and we made a mental note to come back later for treats.

    Lego Store

    The LEGO Store had a massive working windmill in the window!

    More canals

    More canal action! Everybody was out enjoying the Easter weekend Spring weather.

    Tulips

    Get ready – you’re going to see a lot of tulips! There were blooming planters all over the city.

    After lunch, we headed back to our hotel for a nap and shower. Then it was time to go out and meet my Amazonian colleague Anshu!

    Us and Anshu

    Anshu moved from Melbourne last year, so he volunteered to show us around Amsterdam. The first place he took us was Wynand Fockink, a distillery tasting room straight out of the 17th century.

    We stood in the crowd and waited our turn to get to the front. They had more than 50 different liqueurs, including jenever (the Dutch precursor to gin). The attendant explained all about jenever to us and gave us a taste, and then we picked out a couple brandies to try. (I went with cherry; the Snook with sloe.) The tiny glasses are filled right up to the brim, and you’re meant to bow down to slurp the first sip out of them. Fun!

    Arendsnest

    Our next stop was a Dutch craft beer bar called the Arendsnest, along one of the canals. We sat outside and enjoyed some excellent brews as the sun got lower in the sky.

    Bierfabriek

    Our final stop of the night was Bierfabriek Amsterdam, a brewery and restaurant right in the city. It was crowded by they found us a table tucked in the corner. Their specialty is “rustic slow roasted French farm chicken,” and who could resist that?

    We said our goodbyes to Anshu and headed back to the hotel to rest up ahead of a very big Easter Sunday…

    (more…)

  • AWS re:Invent and USA

    AWS re:Invent and USA

    At the end of November we headed to the US for AWS re:Invent as well as a long-awaited Christmas visit with my family.

    Leaving Munich

    We had a fairly early flight out of Munich, and the first snowfall of the year was just starting as we waited for the train to the airport.

    Flight to Chicago

    We flew from Munich to Chicago, our first big transcontinental flight in a very long time! That flight wasnā€™t too full, but the one from Chicago to Vegas certainly was.

    In-N-Out

    We got to Vegas and checked into our hotel. We were both pretty tired, but we knew we had to stay up as long as we could. Some of the European AWS leaders I knew were in town, so we met up with a few of them for dinner at In-N-Out.

    With Rinon and Gloria

    Thatā€™s us with the lovely Rinon and Gloria from ZĆ¼rich at The Book in the Linq Hotel. We were really flagging at this point, so thatā€™s when we called it a night!

    The next day I wasnā€™t on duty until later in the day, so I took the Snook to lunch with a colleague of mine at the Momofuku in the Cosmopolitan Hotel.

    Pork belly buns

    The pork belly buns are, as always, divineā€¦

    Shoyu Pork Ramen

    The Snook went with the Shoyu Pork Ramenā€¦

    Ginger Scallion Noodle

    ā€¦while I had the Ginger Scallion Noodle with Chicken.

    Bellagio Winter Wonderland

    We were staying in the Bellagio, which had kind of a ā€œwinter wonderlandā€ set up in the lobby. I should note that I was really happily surprised by the level of mask wearing in Vegas. All of the casinos had signs up announcing that masks were required, and pretty much everybody was complying. I even saw people wearing them on the Strip in the spots that were very crowded.

    Me and Isa

    I headed over to the Expo hall to meet up with my colleagues at the AWS DevLounge. Here I am with Isa, who heads up AWS DevRel for EMEA (Europe, Middle East, and Africa).

    User Group wall

    We had a big wall set up for user group leaders to write on, so I couldnā€™t resist giving a shoutout to my buddies back in Australia!

    AWS Heroes

    That night I headed to Mandalay Bay for a special AWS Heroes event. Heroes are external AWS experts who are recognised for leading communities, creating content, and basically being amazing ambassadors for the platform. One of the perks they get each year is an all-expenses paid trip to re:Invent, as well as a special kickoff mixer. This is me with Martin, Markus, and Philipp from the German AWS community.

    The view

    The view was pretty amazing!

    I spent the whole next day in a meeting room with the DevRel leadership team, working on our goals and strategy for the year. (I should mention that Rodd was actually working too, just remotely from our hotel.) We had a special dinner reservation that night thoughā€¦

    Best Friend

    Roy Choiā€™s Best Friend in the Park MGM! We caught the monorail over and were delighted to discover that the Park MGM is smoke-free. WOW. Iā€™m actually tempted to stay there the next time I visit. It was literally a breath of fresh air.

    Best Friend

    The front of Best Friend looks like a Korean convenience store, but once you get in it opens up into a more traditional dining room. Our table had a view through to the kitchen. (I still look jet lagged.)

    Best Friend

    Itā€™s a Korean restaurant, so of course we had to get banchan! I also couldnā€™t resist ordering a FrosĆ© slushie from the ā€œDranksā€ menu.

    We had Kogi Short Rib Tacos, Street Corn, Garlic Chicken, and glistening dinner rolls. In all honesty, it was too much food!

    Us at Best Friend

    These are the faces of two people who are definitely not ordering dessert. šŸ˜‚

    One of my main jobs at re:Invent was hosting some of the AWS OnAir sessions. Hereā€™s one that I did the next day talking with our customer Aerospike.

    I should also mention that I helped with a project to build a beer recommendation mobile application, which was also presented by some of my colleagues at re:Invent too.

    After a long day in the Expo, I headed over to the Wynn casino for a meeting of AWS User Group leaders.

    AWS User Group Leaders

    Thatā€™s me with my colleague Sebastien taking selfies. It was really cool to hear from some of these folks about best practices for running meetups and creating inclusive communities.

    That night, the DevRel team had a dinner at the Eiffel Tower in the Paris Hotel. We had a really great view of the Bellagio Fountain show.

    Creme BrƻlƩe

    And I had a pretty amazing Creme BrĆ»lĆ©e to end the nightā€¦

    AWS Dress

    The next day, I broke out my famous AWS dress. Here I am along with Dale Chihulyā€™s famous ā€œFiori Di Comoā€ ceiling in the Bellagio.

    My last day at re:Invent started in the Expo Hall again as we were getting ready for another day of Community talks.

    Community Lounge

    I also hosted several more OnAir sessions, including this cool one where had some of the new AWS Outposts servers physically there to look at.

    And that was it for my first ever re:Invent experience! It was finally time to go on vacationā€¦

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  • Visiting London and Wales

    Visiting London and Wales

    Not long after we got to Munich, I saw an ad on Facebook for the West End theatrical production of Neil Gaiman’s book The Ocean at the End of the Lane. I bought the book back in 2014 and we both read it and loved it. I knew that the play had received rave reviews when it opened at the National Theatre a few years back, and it seemed like a great opportunity for a trip back to London to reunite with some of our friends. I decided to play it very safe and buy tickets for a full year in the future, hoping that by then we’d be able to safely travel there and see it. I splurged and got really nice tickets for November 2021 (for our wedding anniversary), and we booked our flights and hoped things would work out. Thankfully, for the most part it did!

    Flying to London

    The UK had famously dropped most Covid restrictions by the end of 2021, and Omicron hadn’t yet hit. We still had to show our vaccination passes, and there was a requirement that visitors had to take a Covid test within 2 days of arriving. We pre-booked our tests for pickup at the airport and managed to collect them in Heathrow without too much trouble. We caught the Heathrow Express to Paddington and then walked to our hotel, the Park Grand Lancaster Gate.

    My old house

    We deliberately chose the hotel because it was so close to where we had both first lived in London. In fact, it was just up the street from where I had lived as a student (and later RA) for the Notre Dame London Program. The old digs had been done up a bit posher than I remembered.

    Leinster Arms

    This was an incredibly special place to visit – The Leinster Arms. This was my local pub as a student, and it’s where I had my first ever pint in London. I spent so many hours (and quid!) there with my friends when I was a student. I used to have dreams where I was back in this pub. We went straight there, and I was shocked to see how upmarket it is these days. (The London in my mind is perpetually 1999.) It was clean and refurbished, and full of nice-looking couples (rather than feral uni students). My beloved dartboard was gone (as was the dodgy jukebox – which had been affixed to the wall right behind where I’m standing here), but on the upside, the taps were full of local craft brews.

    Leinster Arms

    The bartender kindly let us know that a table had opened up in the front room, so we finished our beers there. We were about six feet from the spot where we had one of our first dates, nearly 22 years before! Most of the patrons were watching a rugby game on TV – Australia vs. England. “Do you think I’ll get beat up if I cheer for Australia?” the Snook asked. “Best not risk it.”

    We walked over to Queensway to check out the neighbourhood, and I was sad to see that the Gooch (another pub) had closed since we last visited in 2016. The Snook was reminiscing about his first address in London, a dodgy backpackers nearby that he had stayed in with his mate Steve. Queensway wasn’t quite as feral as we remembered, and many of the tourist shops seemed to be gone. Whiteleys (the shopping center) is undergoing some massive refurbishment. Queensway Tube Station felt the same as always though, with that weird elevator entrance, but it was nice to be able to swipe in/out with my iPhone. We caught the Central line to Tottenham Court Road as we had a very special person to meet…

    Alex!

    Alex! He looks exactly the same, though the salt-and-pepper hair is all white these days. We both met Alex at the same time when was assigned to the “madaboutwine.co.uk” team with us back in 1999, and he eventually ended up rooming with Rodd in Harlesden before the three of us got a share house in Hammersmith. Now he’s married with a wife and kids out in the suburbs, but he kindly came in to town for a bit of a pub crawl with us…

    Covent Garden

    We spent a few hours together getting reacquainted with Soho, Covent Garden, and Seven Dials. It all felt very Christmassy and festive. The number of people out and about was truly shocking through. Not just in a “don’t they know there’s a pandemic happening?” kind of way, but in a “this is way more people than I ever remember seeing here on a random Friday night before” way. And what’s with the “pedi-cabs” in London these days? There were heaps of bicycle taxis decked out with lights blaring doof-doof music at every turn.

    Chinatown

    We ended the night as one usually does, having a late night feed in Chinatown. The food and the company were excellent.

    Picadilly Circus

    We parted from Alex at Picadilly Circus at midnight. It was so lovely to see him. ā¤ļø

    Hamleys

    We walked back up Regent Street, peeking in the shop windows. Hamleys had a lovely Harry Potter themed display set up! We finally caught a taxi back to our hotel before retiring for the night.

    Full English

    We were both feeling a bit seedy the next day after such a big night, so there was only one thing for it – a full English breakfast. We found Sheila’s Cafe nearby that more than did the trick. Once fortified, we headed back towards Covent Garden for our next rendezvous…

    Steve

    Steve! This is the Aussie who dragged Rodd to London in the first place, who crashed with him in the dodgy backpackers and then in the bedsit in Harlesden, and who we once memorably visited while he was bartending at a remote hotel on Loch Lomond. Steve and his wife Kate have been living with their kids in England for many years now, so it was a real treat to get to catch up with him. ā¤ļø And then a few hours later it was time for…

    Ben

    Ben! Aka Wee Ben, aka the Ferret. Ben is actually the reason I have this silly domain name in the first place, as he first dubbed me the “web goddess” (in a thick Glaswegian accent) way back in 2000. He looks exactly the same. We tramped around the city with him and had dinner at a Mexican restaurant. He and Rodd reminisced about visiting dodgy computer markets together. It was nice. ā¤ļø

    London Transport

    Honestly, I love the Tube. It’s always filthy and you wonder how this Victorian marvel keeps hanging in there, but I love it.

    Hyde Park

    The next morning we headed out for a walk through Hyde Park. I was looking for a very particular bench dedicated to Rudolf Steiner near the Serpentine. It was a spot that I had loved visiting as a student, and Rodd and I once had a picnic on the grass nearby not long after we started dating. (We found the bench. He’s still just as cute.)

    The Arch by Henry Moore

    “The Arch” by Henry Moore. We both remembered seeing the large version in Columbus, Indiana when we visited in 2019, but neither of us remembered this one in London. (Turns out it’s because it was taken down in 1996 and only put back up in 2012.)

    Horse Guards

    As we neared the Serpentine Bridge, we heard the sound of hooves. It was a long mounted horse guard trooping past! No idea why, but it was fun to watch.

    Albert Memorial

    We exited the park near the Royal Albert Hall, stopping to check out the Albert Memorial. After the West End crowds on the weekend, the park felt strangely empty of tourists.

    City of Westminster

    We headed to the nearest Tube Station and headed towards the City of London, where we split up for a few hours.

    Lunch with the girls

    I had a boozy lunch with my AWS colleagues Iliyana and Isabel…

    St. Paul's Cathedral

    …and then swung past St. Paul’s on my way towards the river.

    Millennium Bridge

    I crossed the Thames at the Millennium Bridge. (It’s nice that they repaired it after the Death Eaters destroyed it!)

    Looking east on the Thames

    Looking east, I could see all the way to Tower Bridge, with the massive Shard dominating the skyline.

    Tate Modern

    My destination was just on the other side of the river though – the Tate Modern.

    Mr. Snook

    And there, waiting on the Thames foreshore, was a very smartly dressed Mr. Snook…

    Beard shaping

    …who had been off having some manscaping done at a posh Bankside barber. Look at that beard shaping! šŸ˜

    Time to go see some art.

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  • A day at Bavaria Filmstadt

    A day at Bavaria Filmstadt

    At some point during our first six months in Munich, the Snook casually mentioned that we should go ride on Falkor. I was like, ā€œWait, what?!ā€ Heā€™d somehow learned about the existence of Bavaria Filmstadt, the local movie studio facility, and that it had a tour where you could literally sit on Falkor the luckdragon fromĀ The Neverending Story. I was all in on that idea.

    Bavaria Filmstadt has been around under various names for over 100 years. Alfred Hitchcock made his first film there, and the many notable productions filmed in part there includeĀ The Great Escape,Ā The Sound of Music,Ā Cabaret,Ā Downfall, andĀ Das Boot. And of course, relevant to my own personal interests – a little 1971 movie calledĀ Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factoryā€¦

    Bavaria Filmstadt

    The film studios are south of the Munich city center along the Isar, and not that far from where we live. We picked a nice autumn day and had a nice slow 45min pootle along the river on our bicycles.

    Filmstadt Bavaria entry

    Hereā€™s the entrance to the studios. We had pre-booked tickets for the 90min tour. The website mentioned English tours once a day, but we discovered when we got there that they werenā€™t happening anymore because demand had dropped during Covid. Thankfully they had an app that provided some English commentary so we wouldnā€™t be completely lost.

    U-boot

    The entranceway has some fun exhibits set up, like this scale model of the U-96 fromĀ Das Boot. There were also a couple food trucks, so we grabbed a quick lunch before the tour kicked off. Then we were ushered onto a little train which drove us around past some of the studios and offices. Our first stop was a ā€œ4D Motion Rideā€ calledĀ Mogliā€™s Dschungel Abenteur. Itā€™s one of those things where youā€™re watching a very disorienting 3D movie while the seating moves up and down and water occasionally sprays in your face. It wasā€¦ not my favourite part of the day.

    Die Zauberflƶte

    Then the actual studio tour began. Our group weaved our way through different film sets and props from the movies over the years. I got the impression that the layout depends greatly on whatā€™s been filming there recently. This was part of the backdrop for the upcoming filmed version ofĀ The Magic Flute that had filmed six months earlier.

    The White House

    From there we shuffled straight into the White House! This hallway had apparently featured in the upcomingĀ Kung Fury 2 featuring none other thanā€¦

    President Schwarzenegger

    President Schwarzenegger himself. šŸ˜‚

    Emma the Locomotive

    They had a large exhibit of set pieces from theĀ Jim Button German films, including Emma the Locomotive. I havenā€™t read these books but theyā€™re by Michael Ende, author ofĀ The Neverending Story.Ā 

    Nepomuk the Dragon

    I believe this was Nepomuk the Dragon.

    The Southern Oracle

    We were were shuffling between rooms when I glanced upwards and stopped dead in my tracks. The Southern Oracle!

    The Auryn

    At one point we shuffled down a hallway with lots of photos from past productions. At the end of it was a small exhibit of items fromĀ The Neverending Story, including a mural of the Auryn.

    Morla

    Morla, the Ancient One! Just looking at that face, I could hear that wheezing voice in my mind.

    Rockbiter

    The Rockbiter! I like that they included a joyous representation of him, rather than the sad ā€œThey look like big, strong hands, donā€™t they?ā€ version that makes me want to cry.

    Willy Wonka

    I didnā€™t spot any props fromĀ Willy Wonka but I did see it represented in a photo on the wall.

    Das Boot turret

    They had a major exhibit fromĀ Das Boot, including this scale (I think?) model of the turret from the submarine.

    Scale model

    Another scale model of the sub. They had exhibits outside showing how the crew filmed shots from the movie as well as the 2018 TV series. We then joined the queue shuffling into the long building behindā€¦

    Inside the sub

    ā€¦which turned out to be the actual set of the submarine!

    Submarine

    It was a pretty tight fit!

    Handsome Snookums

    Would it surprise you to learn that he was actually quoting lines fromĀ The Hunt for Red October the whole time? ā€œOne ping only, please,ā€ I heard him growl. ā¤ļø

    Tight fit

    Note: the sub is pretty small, and there are places where you have to climb through low bulkhead doors like behind the Snook here!

    Stowaway

    Another studio had sets from the recent sci-fi filmĀ Stowaway.

    Gaulish village

    The Snook was very excited by this exhibit of sets fromĀ Asterix and Obelix vs. Caesar. We walked through the mock Gaulish villageā€¦

    Menhir

    ā€¦and found Obelixā€™s quarry where he works on the menhirs (standing stones)!

    Caesarā€™s dungeon

    They also had the set used for Caesarā€™s dungeonā€¦

    Crocodile pool

    ā€¦including a pool filled with (thankfully fake) crocodiles!

    Viking boat

    Another outdoor set was a Viking village from theĀ Vicky the Viking film.

    The tour also had a couple interactive areas where I didnā€™t take photos. One was the classroom set from the German film trilogyĀ Fack ju Gƶhe (which translate to, I kid you not, ā€œF**k you Goetheā€ in English!). There a couple volunteers sat at desks and recited lines which were then edited into a scene from the movie. Another was about special effects and had a few of us (including me and the Snook) in a mock train carriage while a guy scrolled scenery out the window. (Apparently you could download these clips when you left, but we didnā€™t bother.)

    Gift shop

    The gift shop also had some funĀ Neverending Story merch, including a box full of Auryns and some very cute little Falkors!

    Falkor

    Our final stop was to visit the luckdragon himself. They had him set up in a small building near the entrance to the studios, and to my shock not many of the tourists there that day seemed very excited to visit him.

    Riding Falkor

    A couple stuck their heads in as we were geeking out and taking photos of each other riding Falkor. The guy nicely offered to take one of the two of us, then grudgingly admitted heā€™d never seen the movie! šŸ˜±

    Falkorā€™s face

    Look at that face! Canā€™t you just hear his voice? I felt like a kid again.

    Happy Halloween!

    I forgot to mention – we were there a couple days before Halloween and they were prepping for a special event. The whole tour was being made over with a haunted house theme for a ā€œSpookytour,ā€ and we saw lots of creepy props and zombie cast members getting ready. The Snook didnā€™t want to particularly do that, but I couldnā€™t resist saying ā€œSpookytourā€ over and over. And wow, special Halloween Dunkinā€™ Donuts!

    Biking home

    And then we headed home, enjoying a very autumnal ride through the Bavarian forest.

    Rail bridge

    We crossed a high rail bridge and you can see that the trees were really changing colour.

    The Isar

    And a final view of the Isar before we got homeā€¦

  • Fairytale Castles

    Fairytale Castles

    On our way back from Barcelona, I pulled out my phone and idly checked the Hohenschangau ticket office, as I had many times over the past few months. To my delight, they actually had some tickets available for the next weekend! On a whim I bought a pair and we quickly arranged a weekend away in FĆ¼ssen, the nearest town to the famous castle of Neuschwanstein.

    On the train to Fussen

    FĆ¼ssen is southwest of Munich, less than three hours on the train. (Itā€™s right next to the Austrian border, the next valley over from Garmisch-Partenkirchen.) The weather that weekend was gorgeous, and it was thrilling to see the mountains rising up in the distance. Andā€¦ is that a little castle I spy?? šŸ°

    Mountains

    We stayed in the Hotel Schlosskrone, just a short walk from the train station. The view from our hotel was pretty glorious.

    View from hotel

    We headed out into the town for a wander and to find some dinner. FĆ¼ssen was founded in Roman times and itā€™s retained quite a medieval feel.

    Evening in Fussen

    Itā€™s pretty touristy too, being the closest place to Ludwigā€™s castles. Phew, ā‚¬500+ for a cuckoo clock?!

    Cuckoo clocks

    We also got a glimpse of the Hohes Schloss (ā€œHigh Castleā€) up on the hill, the former summer residence of the prince-bishops of Augsburg.

    Hohes Schloss

    The next day we headed back out to check it out in the sunshineā€¦

    Hohes Schloss

    Gosh it was beautiful there.

    Hohes Schloss

    We were heading towards the river, where we knew there were was a waterfall. Along the way we ducked in the courtyard of St. Mangā€™s, a former Benedictine monastery. Now it contains the Museum of FĆ¼ssen.

    St. Mangā€™s Courtyard

    I loved how decorated the buildings were in town. This was the Church of the Holy Spirit.

    Church of the Holy Spirit

    The river in FĆ¼ssen is called the Lech, and it flows from a lake in the Alps all the way to the Danube. Hereā€™s the Snook on the LechbrĆ¼cke (ā€œLech Bridgeā€).

    Lech

    We had another view of St. Mangā€™s from the river.

    St. Mangā€™s

    We crossed the river and hiked a short distance to the west, where we reached our destination – the Lechfall.

    Lechfall

    The water pours down a series of steps at a narrow bend in the river with high cliffs on either side. Up on the cliff there is a small memorial to King Maximilian II of Bavaria. Thereā€™s also a small footbridge across the river that we headed down to get a better view.

    Lechfall

    I recorded a little video too.

    Behind us, looking back east towards townā€¦

    River Lech

    The water in the river was incredibly clear.

    Water

    We crossed the river in search of the Via Claudia Augusta, the ancient Roman road created by Drusus and his Emperor son Claudius. Now parts of it are a popular hiking path marked with replicas of the Roman milestones.

    Via Claudia Augusta

    We followed it north towards the Tal der Sinne (ā€œValley of the Sensesā€).

    Via Claudia Augusta

    Along the way we passed lots of charming houses, both modern and traditional.

    We made it to The Valley and found an old ski jump! That was pretty cool.

    Ski Jump

    And the Snook got to impersonate a sundial.

    Sundial Snookums

    We hiked back into town in search of sustenance. We passed a lot of hotels and guest houses, but tourist numbers were still pretty low due to Covid.

    Fussen

    I thought this building covered in birdhouses was really cute.

    Bird houses

    Back in town, we did some shopping. I lobbied hard, but no, he regrettably did not buy the hat.

    Snookums in the hat

    We found a sunny spot for lunch and beersā€¦

    The Snook may not have bought a hat, but I did! I got it at the Hutladen.

    My new hat

    The next day, it was time to head to the castles! šŸ°

    (more…)

  • Summer Cycling Update

    Summer Cycling Update

    Itā€™s been a really long time since I updated you on my cycling! I didn’t rack up quite as many kilometers this summer as I’d hoped, mostly because we were travelling whenever we could and the weather was pretty rainy. I’m not far off the pace that I need for my yearlong 1000km goal, but I doubt I’ll get there given that it’s getting cold and we have more travel planned.

    Strava Progress - 745/1000 km

    I thought I’d share a few of the more notable long rides I’ve done. One back in May was to Messestadt Riem.

    My destination was about 15km across Munich. I found a route on Komoot and headed off, with the Snook following on the train. One landmark on the way there was St. Michaelā€™s church in Berg am Laim. I was sweaty so I didnā€™t go inside, but it was very pretty. For the route, I avoided the main roads and mostly went through residential areas and parks.

    Messestadt Riem (literally ā€œConvention City Riemā€) is one of Munichā€™s newest suburbs and was built on the grounds of an old airport. It has a big convention center, of course, as well as a large park with a man-made lake. The Snook had brought us a picnic lunch, so we walked through the park and found a spot to enjoy our sandwiches. Lots of folks were out and about.

    Picnic

    We walked around the lake and the ā€œbeach,ā€ then climbed the ā€œHĆ¼gelā€ (hill) to check out the view. It was surreal to see a lake with folks playing beach volleyball, with snow-capped mountains on the horizon!

    I parted with the Snook at the train station and climbed back onboard my bike for the ride home. I went by the more direct route, using the bike path alongside the road.

    So all up, that ride was about 30km / 18.5 miles!

    In June I did an even longer one of about 35km, heading north along the Isar river and into the far part of the Englischer Garten that I’d never visited before.

    It was a warm and sunny day but the clouds were moving in rapidly. (Yes, I wore sunscreen!) This was one of the canals that splits off as the Isar moves north out of the city.

    Crossing the Isar

    Here’s the river properly, far up near the suburb of Ismaning. I had reached my turnaround point and started heading back when I noticed this rocky little beach and stopped for a rest. There was a large group having a barbecue. That box in the river is actually their cooler filled with drinks! MĆ¼ncheners love swimming and playing in the Isar.

    Party in the Isar

    I rode up the east side of the river as I headed out, but for the return journey I crossed over one the bridges so I could head back on the west side.

    Crossing over again

    Whenever I’m doing these really long rides, I’ve started bringing snacks along so I can refuel at the halfway point. I found a nice little bench and stepped aside for some peanuts, dried fruit, and one of my last Aussie snacks… ā¤ļø

    Snack time

    Unbeknownst to me, the weather was about to take a turn. A sudden downpour of very cold rain had me huddling under a tree, waiting for it to pass…

    Ew, rain!

    Fortunately it passed quickly and I was able to finish the ride. The Snook met me at the biergarten so I could celebrate my longest ride yet!

    The reward - beer!

    A month later I broke my record again, this time on a ride to the southwest through Forstenrieder Park all the way to the village of Buchendorf and back. This was a beautiful ride that I really enjoyed… but it ended in TRAUMA! (More about that in a minute.)

    As you can see, I was really excited to head off. I had recently invested in some proper cycling shorts with extra butt padding, so I was feeling pretty confident about this ride.

    Cycling update

    Part of my planned path was along the WĆ¼rm River, a small tributary of the Amper that eventually ends in the Danube. It flows through a few small villages, which were all very pretty. These photos were near GrƤfelfing.

    The route I had was from Komoot again, and it was mostly on paved and gravel bike paths. It’s so gorgeous here. People are always like, why did you move from Australia to Germany? JUST LOOK AT THAT! So much green! I just can’t get enough of it.

    Forest

    Feeling good

    Eventually I popped out of the forest and found myself in cornfields! It was so surreal. Almost felt like Indiana!

    Cornfields

    I crossed the WĆ¼rm again at the village of Gauting and saw this historic water wheel (aka Wasserrad) that used to power a local papermill.

    Water wheel

    This was after I’d passed through Buchendorf, the village that marked the middle-point of the ride. I found myself riding through gentle rolling fields under an amazing blue sky.

    Wide open skies

    As you can see, I was getting a bit sweaty and tired. I was also feeling some soreness in my bum, despite all the padding in my new shorts. I was starting to suspect that the big cushy seat on the Swapfiets bike wasn’t actually doing me any favours…

    Legs

    I found a bench in Forstenrieder Park to eat my snack and have a rest.

    Snack time

    I made the rest of the trip home without incident, and I was feeling pretty proud at having managed such a long ride. NOW WE COME TO THE TRAUMA. Later that night, showered and fed, I was sitting on the sofa in a pair of shorts when the Snook looked at me and said, “Is your leg bleeding?!” Folks, I had a big bruised wound high up on my thigh that had actually burst somehow without me noticing it. It was basically a boil or a saddle sore that had formed from rubbing against the bike seat. We cleaned it up, put on an antiseptic, and bandaged it up. I also took a photo so I could show my doctor the next day via a tele-appointment. “Yeah, you’re fine,” he said. (These German doctors!) So yeah, my first saddle sore. Not fun!

    That was basically the impetus I needed to finally buy a new bike. By August, I had found one on Ebay and paid ā‚¬250 for it. It’s a hybrid (meaning a cross between a road bike and a mountain bike) from local Munich cyclery 2rad.

    My bike

    It’s a couple years old, so I’ve made some upgrades and modifications since I got it. It originally came with a basket on the back but I took it off since I don’t really use it much. I took it into 2rad for a check-up, and they ended up replacing the brake pads for me and one of the chain links. One of the tire tubes had a leak, so Rodd and I managed to put in a new one. I also bought a new pair of handle grips to replace the old foam ones, and I got a hand-pump that I mounted on the frame. (I carry a patch kit and tire levers in my hydration pack, but I’m thinking of getting a little saddle bag.) It’s so much lighter than the Swapfiets bike! It’s also got more gears (27!) and consequently I’m finding it a lot easier to get up hills. And most importantly, the new seat is narrower and so far I’m finding it a lot more comfortable for long rides.

    The first long ride I took her on was – where else? – along the Isar through the Englischer Garten.

    Thankfully the flooding we saw earlier in the summer had mostly dissipated by September and the Isar was back to its normal size.

    Isar

    I couldn’t resist swinging by the Eisbachwelle to see if there were many surfers there. Yeah, there were a lot!

    Eisbachwelle

    There were also plenty of folks taking advantage of the beautiful weather at the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower) biergarten.

    Chinese Tower

    Every time I ride through the English Garten, I see something new. This time it was a field of sunflowers waving at me across a fence, and an old hydro power station across the river.

    Snack time! You can also see in the background here the last bike-related purchase I made – a helmet. They aren’t required here, but I’m trying to get into the habit of wearing, especially for my long rides. I got a plain white Skullcap helmet and I’ve been having some fun decorating it with stickers.

    Snack time

    My return trip took me back through the city, and I was happy to see a concert and arts festival happening in the Odeonsplatz. The “net” hanging above is actually an artwork by Janet Echelmann, and it looks incredibly beautiful lit up at night.

    Odeonsplatz

    As I was waiting at a red light near home, I heard a loud jingling noise. To my delight, all traffic stopped as the Augustiner BrƤu bierwagen drove past, pulled by a team of horses and carrying a couple beardy Bavarians in lederhosen. Official Oktoberfest may have been cancelled, but MĆ¼ncheners still celebrated where they could!

    Bierwagen

    The last long ride I did was just last weekend, a giant loop that took me on a greatest hits tour of Munich…

    The first stop was Nymphenburg Palace, which we visited last year. My route took me across the bridge that crosses the Nymphenburger Kanal. I stopped midway to look back towards the palace. That’s it way off in the distance in that first photo. The other is looking in the opposite direction, down the canal…

    There’s also an even smaller offshoot of the canal called the Biedersteiner, and I rode along that for a bit.

    Biedersteiner Kanal

    My next stop was Olympiapark, site of the Munich Olympics. Honestly, the juxtaposition of the green grass and the blue sky was so stunning I had to stop and take this photo. (Note to self: go back there in the winter and sled down that hill!)

    Olympia Park

    There were lots of folks enjoying the day, boating on the little lake, and hiking the hills.

    Olympiaturm

    Eventually I headed home via the Englischer Garten and the Isar, and I finished at the Altstadt. It’s a pedestrian area so I had to walk my bike through the Marienplatz. It was looking very pretty, with baskets of flowers in Autumn colours all along the front.

    Marienplatz

    I think that pretty much brings you up to date! Here’s a view of my Heat Map of where I’ve ridden in Munich. The really bright areas are from my shorter trips to the office or through the local parks, but all those little red tendrils are from my longer rides. Pretty neat! If you’re on Strava, you can follow me there and see if I managed to make my 1000km goal after all…

    Cycling Heat Map

  • A long-delayed Italian pilgrimage

    A long-delayed Italian pilgrimage

    This month we went on a very special trip to Italy.

    As always with these travel posts, I have to put them in context. This one goes way back! Five years ago, I went to a special foodie symposium at the Sydney Opera House hosted by acclaimed Danish chef RenĆ© Redzepi (from Noma). He was joined onstage by many other chefs, including David Chang (from Momofuku) and Massimo Bottura (from Osteria Francescana). The event was all about the future of food, how we eat as a society, how food and culture intersect and impact the environment, and the responsibility of chefs to educate. Not only are these guys all really smart, they’re literally the best in the world at what they do. When you get a chance to eat at one of their restaurants, you take it.

    Fast forward to September 2020, not long after we arrived in Germany. I started thinking about which bucket list restaurants we could visit in Europe, and I discovered that Osteria Francescana takes bookings six months in advance. It’s been rated the best restaurant in the world twice and currently has three Michelin stars. (Also, if you watched Master of None on Netflix, it was featured – along with Massimo himself – in Season 2.) Covid was still making everything uncertain, but we figured it was worth taking a gamble. The restaurant is very small (it only has 12 tables!!), but we managed to get a reservation for the following April. Unfortunately, we went into lockdown over winter and things were still very uncertain in March. The restaurant was open but we weren’t sure if we’d be able to get in/out of Italy without having to quarantine. Reluctantly, we cancelled the reservation and decided to try again. Thankfully we were able to get another booking for the following September, a full year after the initial idea. And happily, this time we were vaccinated and able to go.

    Train to Italy

    As usual, we decided to train it. We caught the EuroCity train from Munich to Bologna, travelling south across Austria through the Tyrolean Alps to Italy. The trip takes about 7 hours and features truly stunning scenery. We were lucky that that weather was perfect and we had great views of soaring bridges, charming villages, and hilltop fortresses. (Note: we wore masks the whole time and I only had him take it off briefly for the photo!)

    As we passed through Verona, a cheeky Capulet bit his thumb at me! šŸ˜‚

    Biting his thumb!

    At Bologna we had to change trains for the short ride to Modena, our destination for the weekend. Modena is known for UNESCO World Heritage sites, balsamic vinegar, Enzo Ferrari, Luciano Pavarotti, and of course, a very special restaurant. We hauled our bags over to our hotel and the headed out into the city to explore.

    Piazza Roma

    We got to Piazza Roma just as the sun was setting. The Ducal Palace runs down one side and has fountains out in front.

    Ducal Palace

    I’d found a promising place for dinner so we went for a wander through the cobbled streets of the historic center.

    Modena at night

    We headed to Sosta Emiliana, where we grabbed a small table outside. The restaurant specialised in local delicacies from Emilia-Romagna like tigella (Modenese flatbreads), meats and cheeses, and sparkling Lambrusco. We went with platters that meant we got to taste a bit of everything!

    Sosta Emiliana

    On our way back to the hotel we passed the Duomo di Modena (Modena Cathedral), a UNESCO World Heritage site. It looked very dramatic lit up against the night sky.

    Duomo

    “Have we had too much Lambrusco or… is it leaning a bit?” we wondered. Definitely some funky angles going on there.

    Bell tower

    The next day the morning dawned hot and sunny. We had time to fill before our reservation, so we headed into the Parco Giardino Ducale Estense, the park that was formerly the gardens of the Ducal Palace. (As you can see, we dressed up a bit for our fancy lunch.)

    Park

    The old part of Modena is shaped almost like a pentagon so we went for a long stroll around it. This beautiful building on the Viale delle Rimembranze is actually a bank!

    Bank in Modena

    The Snook scoped out the local real estate prices.

    Real Estate agency

    We also went back to the Cathedral and ventured inside. (It’s where Pavarotti’s funeral was held!) It’s over 800 years old and features lots of different styles of carvings and embellishments. The stone lions next to the entrance date to the Roman times and were thought to have been found while digging the foundations. The Cathedral also features the burial site of St. Geminianus, the patron saint of Modena.

    We’d worked up quite an appetite by this point, so it was time to go to lunch! The restaurant entrance is quite unassuming with only a tiny sign, and we probably would’ve walked right past if not for the small group of people waiting nearby. We spent the time taking photographs with some of the other guests and gawking at the Maseratis and Ferraris parked down the street.

    Osteria Francescana

    And then we were ushered inside!

    Rather than a single big space, the restaurant had a few different rooms and we were in one with only four tables.Ā  The walls were decorated with fine art and I felt a little daunted to be sitting there in a dress I’d sewn myself!

    At Osteria Francescana

    Buckle up, because you’re about to get a LOT of food photos…

    (more…)

  • A Trip to Freiburg im Breisgau

    We have been so lucky to get to travel! Another short trip was to Freiburg im Breisgau on the edge of the Black Forest. It’s only a couple hours from Munich on the train, so we headed there on Friday evening.

    On the train to Freiburg

    Along the way we passed through Ulm and got a glimpse in the distance of Ulm Minster, currently the tallest church in the world. (It’ll be overtaken by the Sagrada FamĆ­lia in Barcelona someday if they ever finish it.)

    Ulm Minster

    It was a very pretty train trip, and the sun was setting as we arrived in Freiburg…

    Sunset

    We checked in to our hotel and eventually met up with our friend Scott, who drove down from DĆ¼sseldorf.

    Snookums and Scott

    On Saturday, we ventured out for breakfast. Freiburg is a very beautiful city, and it has a really interesting system of gutters called “BƤchle“. (The word comes from “Bach,” which means “brook.”) These are fed by a nearby river and run all along the edges of the streets in the pedestrian area of the old town. There’s a legend that if you accidentally fall in one of the BƤchle, you’ll end up marrying a Freiburger!

    Snookums over a BƤchle

    The cafe where we had breakfast was actually called BƤchle and it was, of course, right alongside one of them.

    Breakfast
    Our first destination was the MĆ¼nsterplatz (Cathedral Square) around Freiburg MĆ¼nster. As it was early Saturday, there was a market happening all around it. We checked out the architecture of the cathedral and watched the locals go about their shopping. (The Snook would like to draw your attention to the gargoyle in the upper-left of the 4th photo, where the rainwater comes out of a statue’s bum!)

    We continued to wander the old town…

    The old town in Freiburg

    Even the manhole covers were pretty!

    Freiburg manhole cover

    There are also canals that come off the river and feed into the BƤchle. In one of them is a famous stone statue of a crocodile.

    Freiburg is in a famous wine-growing region, and near the city museum was a public garden that had lots of different grape varieties and flowers.

    At lunchtime we piled into Scott’s car and headed towards Schauinsland, a nearby mountain in the Black Forest. The name literally means “look-into-the-country,” and to get to the top of it we took the Schauinslandbahn, Germany’s longest cable car (3.6 kilometres / 2.2 mi).

    Schauinslandbahn

    The journey takes about 15 minutes, and the view kept getting more amazing the higher we went.

    Scott on the Schauinslandbahn

    Schauinslandbahn

    For the last part of the trip, I set my iPhone up on the window and made a time-lapse video.

    The trip was well worth the view!

    Schauinsland

    Us on Schauinsland

    We had lunch at the restaurant on top of the mountain and then headed out for a hike. It turns out that silver, lead, and zinc were mined from the mountain for hundreds of years, and there were miles of mining tunnels beneath us. This tunnel was near the mining museum, and I believe if you go on a tour you may also get to go inside.

    Mining tunnel

    The boys quickly realised that the hike I was taking them on as a little more strenuous than they anticipated! We clambered up and down rocky paths around the top of the mountain for the better part of an hour.

    Hiking path

    One landmark on the mountain is the EnglƤnderdenkmal (Englishmen’s Memorial). Basically, in 1936 a bunch of British schoolboys and their group leader went on an ill-advised hike over the mountain when a blizzard hit. Despite the efforts of the townspeople to save them, several of the boys died from exposure. A few years later a memorial was set up. It’sĀ  a fascinating and tragic story

    EnglƤnderdenkmal

    It was a pretty spot. I took a photo of the view from the wall.

    View from the Denkmal

    We continued our hike. The Snook was, as ever, concerned that he would get a tick bite. (Ticks love him.) (He didn’t.)

    On the hike

    We kept hearing bells all around us on the mountain, a constant soundtrack. What’s with the bells? Then we figured it out. šŸ„

    We also found a sculpture path on the mountain (“Pfad der Sinne” – “Path of the Senses”) that had some really cool carved wood sculptures. You can see some of them online. This one was called “Der Geist des Waldes” (“The spirit of the forest”).

    The Spirit of the Forest

    We eventually returned to the Schauinslandbahn and rode it back down to the bottom, then headed back to Freiburg. We had a dinner reservation at local restaurant called Gasthaus Zur Linde that was recommended in the Michelin Guide. It was very nice, and we sampled quite a few local wines as well.

    Dinner at Gasthaus zur Linde

    Breakfast on Sunday was at Sam’s Cafe in Freiburg, and I went with the traditional “Freiburger FrĆ¼hstĆ¼ck.”

    Freiburger FrĆ¼hstĆ¼ck

    After our hike the day before, we felt like we deserved some pampering. So we got back into Scott’s car and headed for the nearby Keidel Thermal Baths. This large spa area had many heated indoor and outdoor thermal pools, and we spent a few hours swimming and floating and chatting in the sun. (No photos as I locked my phone up in the changing room!) As we were leaving, we noticed a sign pointing downstairs to an area where you can actually see the mineral hot spring that supplies the water.

    Hot spring

    We went for a final wander through Freiburg to check out the BƤchle once more. It was a warm day, so there were often kids splashing or walking in it. I also saw several with little boats on a string that you could pull alongside you as you walked. (I’m still kicking myself I didn’t get one at the market as a souvenir!)

    BƤchle

    More BƤchle…

    Freiburg

    We had just enough time for a late lunch and round of beers at the Hausbrauerei Feierling Biergarten before we had to head to our train and Scott had to start back to DĆ¼sseldorf.

    Feierling Biergarten

    Lovely little excursion to yet another beautiful German town! ā¤ļø

  • A return to Heidelberg

    A return to Heidelberg

    When I was 17, I spent six weeks in the summer of 1994 living and studying in Krefeld, Germany as part of the Indiana University Honors Program in Foreign Languages. There were about thirty of us, and we spent most of our time living with host families and going to class in the city. We did make a couple of group trips though, including one to Heidelberg to visit the famous SchloƟ Heidelberg. I remember vividly that it was my favourite castle in all of Germany. (I even posted some photos on my very first website way back in 1996!)

    Fast forward 27 years…

    On the train

    After a Covid ā€œSchnelltestā€ first thing in the morning, we boarded the train from Munich to Heidelberg. Weā€™d decided to splurge and go for first class (mostly because you can reserve a seat that way), and to our surprise we had an entire compartment to ourselves! The trip was around 4 hours and we got there around lunchtime.

    Altstadt

    We dropped off our bags at our hotel and headed down into the Altstadt. Heidelbergā€™s historic main street is quite a bit longer than a lot of other cities, and there were plenty of folks out and about.

    Down a side street we caught a glimpse of the BrĆ¼ckentor (bridge gate) at the Alte BrĆ¼cke (Old Bridge) across the Neckar River. We also stopped to check out the lovely pink stone Jesuitenkirche (Jesuit Church). But our stomachs were growling, and we had a very special destination in mind for lunch…

    Schnookeloch

    The Schnookeloch! Somehow when we were planning the trip, the Snook noticed that there was a historic guesthouse with his name (sort of) on it. šŸ˜‚ As near we can figure out, ā€œSchnookeā€ in the local dialect refers to jokes or pranks, and ā€œLochā€ is German for ā€œhole.ā€ Fitting name for a very old student pub!

    The burgers and beers were pretty good! On my way to the bathrooms, I noticed that the tables inside were covered in hundreds of student graffiti carvings. Pretty neat! But it was finally time to head to the castle…

    Funicular

    We took the Heidelberger Bergbahn funicular railway up to the castle. Interestingly, I donā€™t remember taking that back in 1994. I suspect that our tour bus simply drove us up to the castle. (Any other IUHPFL alumni remember?)

    Heidelberg and the Neckar

    The castle is a beautiful ruin. As far back as the 19th century there were debates about whether to fully restore it, but thankfully the decision was made it leave most of it alone. The way it looks now is pretty much the same as when Mark Twain visited and wrote about it in 1880. My memories of it from 27 years ago were mostly about being an overly dramatic teenager and swanning about moodily thinking about Romantic poets. (I still canā€™t quite believe Iā€™m getting to revisit some of these places again.)

    After walking around the castle walls, we headed into the courtyard in search of the GroƟes Fass (Big Barrel), also known as the Heidelberg Tun

    Rumoured to be the worldā€™s largest wine barrel, I definitely remembered visiting it back in 1994. But… I remembered it being a lot bigger? Confused, we rounded the next corner andā€”OH.Ā Thatā€™s the big barrel. šŸ˜‚

    Big Barrel

    Thatā€™s more like it! We made the circuit up the stairs to the viewing platform on the top, then back down the other side. With a Snookums for scale:

    Snookums and the big barrel

    We headed back out to walk around the gardens behind the castle. The views of the city were glorious. The castle isnā€™t really as high up the hill as Iā€™d remembered. The weather was overcast but hot.

    Heidelberg

    We headed back to the funicular to go even higher. The castle is at 120m above sea level, but you can ride up to Molkenkur at 289m and then switch to the older line to go up to the Kƶnigstuhl at 550m. The old line is slower and smaller and doesnā€™t run as frequently, so we had to wait a while to board. The trip on the upper section takes about 10 minutes and at times youā€™re climbing a 41% grade! šŸ˜³

    But itā€™s all worth it for that view…

    View from Kƶnigstuhl

    Thereā€™s a hotel at the top of the mountain, as well as an observatory, a falconry (?!), a kidsā€™ fairytale park, and many walking trails. We decided to follow the family walking trail, marked with these rather creepy signs…

    Nature trail signs

    We saw very few other people.

    Snookums

    The family trail was a big loop and had some rustic play areas. The Snook found a brilliant orange slug and took a photo of it. There were also several creepy structures built out of old tree branches, which gave off a very witchy fairytale vibe.

    We caught the funicular back down the mountain and walked through the Altstadt again. Back down by the Alte BrĆ¼cke we patiently waited our turn to take a photo with the famous BrĆ¼ckenaffe (Bridge Monkey), whoā€™s meant to bring you luck. šŸµ

    Monkeys
    I should mention that I made heavy use of this blog post for planning our time in Heidelberg. We took the authorā€™s advice and headed to the Vetterā€™s Alt Heidelberger-Brauhaus for dinner, and everything was delicious!

    Vetterā€™s Alt Brauhaus

    That was a pretty big day. My smartwatch says we did nearly 19K steps! We headed back to the hotel to crash.

    The next morning, we took advantage of the fact that Heidelberg is a university town to have a hipster cafe breakfast at deer. (Honestly, going out for breakfast is the #1 thing Iā€™ve missed in Corona lockdown.) The Snook was very, very happy with his pourover…

    Cafe breakfast

    After breakfast we headed back to the Altstadt and finally crossed the Alte BrĆ¼cke.

    Crossing the bridge

    Our goal was the Philosophenweg (Philosopherā€™s Way), a walking path high up on the other side of the Neckar. To get to it, we decided to climb the Schlangenweg (Snakeā€™s Way). This is an old narrow vineyard path that climbs nearly 90m as it snakes back and forth up the hillside, with stone walls on either side of you. It was actually pretty gruelling, and thankfully there are a couple spots with benches to stop and take in the view.

    We even saw sheep!

    Sheep above the Neckar

    We finally reached the Philosophenweg, which was thankfully flat. We meandered past more vineyards and gardens with lovely flowers. At one point, there was an outlook with some seats, and an old man was playing the guitar. It was heavenly.

    We slowly made our way back down to city level. At the end of the Philosophenweg is the Philosophengarten, which was a riot of colourful blooms.

    Philosophengarten

    I took advantage of the backdrop to take some cute photos of us.

    We walked past many university buildings and charming houses. This one was one of my favourites. It has a poem painted on the side:

    House

    BehĆ¼t dies Haus
    von Wetter und Wind
    und Menschen die langweilig sind.

    ā€œWatch over this house
    from weather and wind
    and people who are boring.ā€

    We checked out of the hotel and stashed our bags in a locker at the train station. Then we hopped on a bus and headed to the nearby town of Schwetzingen. This hadnā€™t been part of our original plan, but I realised when looking at my old website that the IUHPFL trip had included a stop at SchloƟ SchwetzingenĀ and the Snook cleverly figured out how to get there. More nostalgia! When we got to Schwetzingen, we had a quick lunch at a Mexican restaurant near the palace.

    Mexican lunch

    Then we headed over to the palace…

    Schloss Schwetzingen

    I remember that, as a 17-year-old from Indiana, stepping into that formal garden felt like Alice going into Wonderland. Iā€™d never seen anything like it in my entire life.

    Schwetzingen gardens

    The garden was established just as the more formal French style was giving way to the English landscape garden, so itā€™s unique in the way it tries to marry the two.

    Geometry

    While the central vista features strict geometrical beds, topiary, and large fountains, the sides and back have more rambly, natural feeling paths with hidden grottoes and follies.

    Panā€™s grotto

    I was most looking forward to The Temple of Apollo. I remember spending a big chunk of my time in the garden back in 1994 having lunch on the lawn in front of the temple, swooning about and pretending to be a pagan. It looked exactly as Iā€™d remembered.

    Temple of Apollo

    We were delighted to find out you can actually go under/inside the monument and peek out behind the fountain.

    Snookums in the fountain

    We also came across the Vogelbad (bird bath), an over-the-top circular aviary built around a fountain, where dozens of bird sculptures perched around the roof spit water down into the center.

    Vogelbad

    In the alcoves around the sides were many living birds, including quite a few from Australia! Hereā€™s the Snook chatting with the budgerigars.

    Budgies

    The far end of the palace gardens have a lake of sorts with little brooks with bridges over them. Itā€™s all very charming.

    The lake

    We noticed that the Snook bore a resemblance to the statue of the Danube river god…

    Snookums the river god

    …and happily, we found my doppelgƤnger in a statue of Athena. Sheā€™s clearly taking a selfie! šŸ˜‚

    Athena selfie

    Rain was threatening, so it was time to leave the palace and catch the bus back to Heidelberg. We collected our suitcases and then hopped on the train back to Munich, getting back late Sunday night. I honestly never expected to get to visit these places again in my life, so it was such a special and unique treat to see these sights again! ā¤ļø

  • A Day on the Chiemsee

    A Day on the Chiemsee

    After only glimpsing the Chiemsee from a distance on our trip to Salzburg, we knew we needed to head back on a nice day. Itā€™s a large freshwater lake with several islands you can visit, including one with a palace! So when a suitable weather forecast presented itself, we caught the train southeast from Munich towards Prien am Chiemsee

    Chiemsee-Bahn

    But not this train, of course. We took a modern train from Munich. This little green steam train is actually the Chiemsee-Bahn, which runs about a mile from the main station in Prien down to the edge of the lake. You could easily walk that distance, but we couldnā€™t resist getting to ride on heritage-listed choo-choo!

    On the Chiemsee-Bahn

    The train lets you out right at the water and then the engine detaches, spins around on a turntable, and hooks up to head back the other direction.

    Prien-Stock terminus

    All of the Chiemsee ferries and cruises depart from this landing, and there are restaurants, a Ferris wheel, boat rental, a promenade, a swimming center, and lots of folks just hanging out, enjoying the weather. The view of the lake was really spectacular.

    Chiemsee

    We hopped on a ferry and headed to the Herreninsel (ā€œMenā€™s islandā€), the largest one and the one with the palace.

    Snookums on a ferry

    When you get to the island, you end up at a visitor center next to an old Augustinian Monastery. Thereā€™s about a 20 minute walk to the Herrenchiemsee Palace, or you can take a horse carriage ride. We went for the walk, strolling through a beautiful shady wood…

    The walk to Herrenchiemsee

    We eventually reached a break in the woods and stepped out into a formal garden, straight out of Versailles! šŸ˜³

    Herrenchiemsee

    Itā€™s not accidental. It was built by King Ludwig II as the third and last of his famous castles (after Neuschwanstein and Linderhof), and he deliberately modelled it after Versailles. Dude had a fixation with Louis XIV! Several of the fountains are copies of ones at the French palace. (They werenā€™t running constantly; it seems like they were going every half an hour on the day we were there.)

    The only way to see inside the palace is to book a tour, and I was lucky enough to get us on one of the few English versions. It was us and two other couples, and the tour guide took us inside and through all of the completed rooms. Unfortunately photography wasnā€™t allowed, but you can see some pictures on the Wikipedia page. One thing I found fascinating was that Ludwig had his architects copy Versailles pretty closely, but he also built in secret ā€œmodernā€ technology, like central heating from furnaces under the palace. He also had a trap door under his dining table, which cranked up and down like an elevator so it could magically appear with food on it! The Hall of Mirrors was spectacular, as was the worldā€™s largest Meissen porcelain chandelier. Sadly, Ludwig ran out of money before the palace was finished, and he only spent like ten days there before he mysteriously died at 40. (Nowadays they use the unfinished part to host art exhibitions.)

    View towards Chiemsee

    Leaving the palace, you look across the sunken formal garden all the way to the Chiemsee in the distance!

    After a wander back to ferry landing, we caught another boat over to the Fraueninsel (ā€œladiesā€™ islandā€).

    Ferry to Fraueninsel

    While the Herreninsel is mainly a tourist destination, the Fraueninsel has a Benedictine convent and a little village of about 300. Itā€™s car-free, so we had a lovely time walking around and checking out all the little houses and shops. I noticed that several of the places had rental details on them, and I canā€™t imagine a more beautiful place to spend a week just chilling out. We were also delighted to spot some familiar flags. There are Antipodeans living on Fraueninsel! šŸ‡¦šŸ‡ŗšŸ‡³šŸ‡æ

    We took another small cruise to end the day, but we were getting a bit sunburnt and tired at this point!

    Snook on a boat

    To get home, we disembarked at Prien Stock and took the Chiemsee-Bahn back to Prien train station, before catching the regional train back to Munich. Lovely day out on the water!