Tag: sewing

  • Random links I enjoyed recently

  • Machine quilting prototypes

    Machine quilting prototypes

    Experimenting with some of the stitch patterns on my sewing machine. I think the larger stipple is the way to go.

  • Bailee Shorts in Linen

    This weekend I made myself another pair of Bailee Shorts, this time in a beautiful stone washed linen I picked up at Tessuti a few weeks ago. I haven’t sewn with something with this much drape in a long time! I was nervous doing the cutting, because it felt like the fabric could easily move around beneath the pattern. The actual construction went smoothly though, and I love how they turned out. The style definitely looks better in this sort of fabric than in a stiffer cotton. Here I’ve paired it with the Arkie shirt in Liberty Tana Lawn I made a few months back.

    A selfie of a woman in blue linen shorts with a printed button-down short-sleeved shirt

    A selfie of a woman in blue linen shorts with a tucked-in printed button-down short-sleeved shirt

  • Bailee shorts

    Bailee shorts

    I need more shorts, I realised recently. Maybe I didn’t notice because I was working last summer? Anyway, it’s time to make some shorts. These are the Bailee shorts from Tessuti, and I made them in leftover fabric from the tiki wiggle dress I made 8 years ago. I had just enough material, though I did have to rotate the pockets and waistband off-grain. As usual with Tessuti patterns, they were mostly great but with a couple perplexing instructions. For example, the waistband piece is a long rectangle with a fold indicator on one short side, but the cutting diagrams show the long side placed across a fold. Well, which is it? If I do that, it’ll only be half as long as it’s meant to be! I followed my gut and did it the way that makes sense, but it was annoying. Anyway, they turned out wearable, which was all I wanted. The fabric is quite a thick cotton – almost a stretch sateen – so they don’t really drape, and they’re really more like Hawaiian shorts. I’ll do my next pair in a drapey linen to see how they compare…

  • Marimekko Arkie shirt

    Marimekko Arkie shirt

    Starting the year with another finished project! I used the bulk of the remainder of my Marimekko Unikko fabric to make myself a Tessuti Arkie shirt. This is actually the third time I’ve used this pattern, and the last one was so roomy that I decided to go down a size in the body. I left off the pockets, and I moved the break point and top button up about an inch. Looks good, right? I was worried it would be a little too clown-like with the bright colour and large print, but I think it’s fun and suits me.

  • Sleeve pinning

    Sleeve pinning

    Peggy Olson knows that the best way to set in a sleeve is to use a LOT of pins. (I know some of you can do it with zero. I’m not there yet.)

  • Marimekko Shirt

    Marimekko Shirt

    I’m certainly getting my money’s worth out of this fabric, aren’t I? I had just enough left to cut out another Arkie Shirt. I’ve gone down a body size on this one, and I’ve raised the break point an inch. I’m really pleased with how it’s turning out! This is the third one of these I’ve sewn, and each one has gotten better.

    I also experimented with the tweezer method of turning out the collar on this one. It’s definitely sharper than the ones I’ve done in the past. Next time I’ll try the thread method…

    Shirt collar

  • Marimekko placemats

    Marimekko placemats

    I decided a few days ago that we needed new placemats to help protect our lovely new dining room table. I considered buying some, but I couldn’t find any that I liked that weren’t hideously expensive. (The cheapest Marimekko one is $36!) However, I do still have plenty of fabric left over from making the sofa cushions. Why not make my own?

    I started by prototyping different shapes. I wanted something organic and asymmetrical, so I used some cardboard to try out a few different options. (I put a plate on top for sizing.)

    The first was deemed by the Snook “too egg-like.” (I agreed.) So I tried a few rounded triangles and ended up with option #3.

    I decided I wanted the placemats to be reversible, so I found a suitable backing fabric from my stash. I used my template to cut out 6 red front pieces, 6 black back pieces (with the template reversed!), and 6 pieces of thin cotton quilt batting (left over from making Baby Taos’s quilt).

    Cutting the quilt batting

    Here are the pieces all set for sewing. The backing fabric is called “Psycat” by Rhynie Cawood, handprinted by Sydney’s Publisher Textiles. I picked up a remnant many years ago and I love how it looks like a Rorschach test.

    Cut pieces

    To assemble, I laid down a red piece face up, then a black piece face down, and then the batting. I pinned them all together.

    Assembled placemat

    I sewed them together with a 1/4″ seam allowance, leaving a couple inches at the bottom open so I could turn them out.

    Sewing placemats

    Then I trimmed down the quilt batting to avoid the edges being too thick. I also clipped the curves, which basically meant going around the whole thing since it was all curves.

    Clipping curves

    Then I used the opening to turn each placemat right-side out.

    Turning the placemats

    I spent some time making sure all the seams were fully pushed out, and I gave each placemat a good ironing. You can see there the opening at the bottom where I turned it out.

    Reverse placemat

    I folded in the seam allowances at the opening and hit that with the steam iron. Then I top-stitched all the way around each placemat at 1/8″, both for decoration and to close off the opening.

    Top stitching

    Pretty quickly I had a completed stack of six placemats!

    Stack of placemats

    Now it was time to decide on the quilting. I decided that the best options were either a spiral or a grid, so I mocked up a rough idea and sent it to a few friends for thoughts. Everyone voted for spiral.

    I set up the walking foot for my sewing machine, as well as the “quilting attachment” – an adjustable metal bar that sticks out that you can use to sew parallel lines. I used it to ensure the first few spirals were roughly 1″ apart.

    Sewing the spiral

    Once I got to the middle, I was basically free-handing it and just turning the placemat around and around. I LOVE how it turned out! It was really fun too. I blasted through the remaining placemats to finish the project off.

    Finished placemat

    I’ve got a can of Scotchguard around here somewhere so I’ll probably hit them with that to make them a bit more stain-resistant. Don’t they look great on the table?

    Dining room table
  • Textile exhibition

    Queer quilts, rebellious knitting and political pants: the radical world of textiles – What a cool looking exhibition! I love those trade union flags… and the pink shorts. 😉 If you’re going to Adelaide in the next four months, I’d definitely check it out.

  • Needlepoint Cushions with Mrs. Morris

    Needlepoint Cushions with Mrs. Morris

    Eighteen years ago, Mr. Snook’s grandmother (“Kathy-Nanny”) moved into a retirement village, and I was gifted one of her many needlepoint tapestries: a tasteful nude reclining with a whippet. If you don’t know much about needlepoint, it generally involves a heavy canvas with a picture printed on it that you then embroider over with slanted stitches. Many of them are based on fine art, and Kathy-Nanny’s was titled “Venus d’aprés Titien.” (It’s clearly based on “Venus and Musician,” just with the leering musician removed.) It was in a heavy ornate frame, and while it was well-executed and beautiful work, it didn’t really… go with any of our other stuff. I put it in a closet for safekeeping and it basically sat in storage for the better part of two decades.

    A couple months ago, we moved back into the house after our extensive renovation, and I decided it was time to bring Venus back to life. Rather than hang her on the wall, I thought that turning her into a pair of cushions might be the best way to go.

    First, I had to get her out of the frame. Underneath I found the tapestry wrapped around a piece of plywood and stapled all the way around. There were hundreds of staples, each of which had to be pulled out by hand.

    Tapestry over plywood

    Thankfully Mr. Snook helped me. The staples were really dug into the edge, so I pried them loose enough for him to grab with a pair of pliers. It was back-breaking work.

    Pulling staples

    At last we had the tapestry free of the plywood. This is what it looked like from the reverse. Even on that side, you can see what a good job she did with the stitching.

    Reverse of tapestry

    Once I had it free, I rang up my friends at Morris & Sons. Mrs. Morris has sewn more needlepoint cushions than probably anyone in all of Australia, and she kindly offered to teach me how to do it. I met Mrs. M at her workshop, where we started by deciding on the backing fabric. We narrowed it down to these two velvets, and I decided to go with the more orangey-brown one.

    Choosing velvet colours

    Then her son Joseph helped me work out what size to make the cushions. We measured up and realised that if we simply sliced her in half, we’d get two very nearly square cushions out of it. They were both incredulous that I wanted to cut it in half, and Mrs. M couldn’t quite get over the fact that I’d have a cushion with just LEGS on it. But they were game for the experiment, so Joseph cut it up the middle.

    Measuring up

    Joseph also helped me cut appropriately sized pieces of the backing fabric, as well as slicing up many pieces to be used to create piping.

    Cutting the background fabric

    Then the real lessons began! I don’t want to give too many of her secrets away, but at a high level: Mrs. M first showed me how to piece the strips of velvet together into one very long strip, taking care to ensure the nap always went the right direction so it didn’t look or feel odd. Then I created meters and meters of piping, wrapping the strip around a long cord and sewing it down tightly. The Morrises let me use one of their industrial Singer machines, which took a bit of practice to get the hang of. It had a large foot pedal and a knee lever for controlling the presser foot.

    Sewing piping

    Next Mrs. M showed me how to sew the piping down around the border of each cushion top, with some special tricks for navigating the corners and for joining the ends up neatly at the bottom.

    Attaching the piping

    Next I put the backing fabric onto each cushion top, face-down, and pinned it around three sides tight against the piping (leaving the bottom open).

    Pinning on the backing

    Oh no, it’s time to insert the zipper! Mrs. M is a true legend and assured me that it was going to be much easier than I feared.

    Zipper time!

    I watched her closely as she showed me her method. I took lots of photos and notes to try to capture the trickier bits!

    Mrs. M sewing a zipper

    First we sewed one side, and then the other. Hey, I was getting the hang of this!

    Sewing the zipper

    I managed to insert both zippers without too much trouble, only having to unpick one or two bits where I got a bit too close to the zipper teeth.

    Completed zipper

    Then it was time to sew the other three sides of the cushion. The bits at each end of the zipper were the trickiest part, and I had to redo them a couple times. The rest was smooth sailing though.

    Sewing the other three sides

    After turning it rightside-out, I had a finished cushion cover! The legs made me smile immediately. I knew this was going to turn out even better than I’d hoped.

    Completed cushion cover

    The final step was to sew custom-sized cushion inserts. Mrs. M showed me how to gauge the correct size and how to put them together. Each one took a fair bit of stuffing! The hardest part was then sewing the openings closed when they were so full and fluffy.

    Stuffing the inserts

    And here are the completed cushions! As you can tell, I was pretty stoked with how they turned out. It’s still obvious that they are part of the same picture, and I only lost a tiny bit due to cutting her in half.

    Finished cushions

    While I’m sure there are other needlepoint nudie cushions in the world, these are pretty special. They look spectacular on the new couch too! They got a big thumbs up from both Rodd and his sister.

    Legs cushion  Lady cushion

    If you want to make needlepoint cushions of your own, Morris & Sons is definitely the place to start. They have everything you need including tapestry kits with canvas and threads. They also offer a professional service to make up the finished cushions for you once you’ve finished with the embroidery, which is handy if you don’t have an industrial-strength sewing machine at home.

    Thank you to Mrs. M and Joseph for all their help with these! I’m so pleased we’ve been able to keep one of Kathy-Nanny’s pieces alive in our new home. 🩷