• Seafood and Gaudi in Barcelona

    I can’t believe I’m still documenting last year’s travels! We have been incredibly fortunate to get to travel, even during the pandemic. In October, I had a work event in Barcelona and so the Snook decided to accompany me. We headed there a few days early so we had time to play tourist.

    On the plane

    Neither of us had ever been to Barcelona before. Actually, other than a short work trip the Snook made to Madrid 20 years ago, neither of us had ever really been to Spain! We caught a Saturday afternoon flight from Munich and were there within a couple hours. We checked into our hotel and then went out in search of dinner. It was a lovely night.

    Walking in Barcelona

    It was nice to see palm trees again! We had made a 9pm restaurant booking off a recommendation from my boss Enrique, and we had plenty of time to walk through the city and explore. Our route took us past the gates of the famous Citadel Park.

    Gates of Citadel Park

    Our dinner booking was at Passadis del Pep. We honestly had no idea what to expect. Our first challenge was just finding the place – there’s no sign, and you enter through an unobtrusive hallway. We noticed right away that our 9pm reservation – which felt quite late for us – was actually the first sitting of the night, as the place was still pretty empty!

    Pa amb tomàquet

    Our waiter was an older guy who thankfully spoke a little English. “We have no menu,” he said. “We cook whatever is fresh and in season. Are you happy to be surprised?” We said we were. The starter was the classic “pa amb tomàquet” (bread with tomato) with some olives and chips.

    Tartar

    I knew we were going to be in for a lot of seafood! Next course was a tuna tartare doused in olive oil with some crisp toasts.

    Clams

    The food just kept coming. Next was a pot of all different clams and pippis. This was my first time ever having razor clams! The Snook was in heaven, and we eagerly sopped up the pot liquor with bread.

    Happy Snookums

    See? Told you he was happy.

    Peppers and fried fish

    Next we had grilled Padrón peppers with sea salt, and a plate of lightly battered and fried baby shrimps. I was dubious of the Snook’s advice to just eat them, legs and all, but they were so tiny they had crisped up like French fries!

    Grilled squid

    Little grilled squids! Just the right amount of char…

    Wild mushrooms

    Next up was a local specialty of wild mushrooms with a very rich sauce. (Definitely butter, maybe even some egg yolks?) I liked this, but the Snook wasn’t as much of a fan.

    Jamón ibérico

    At this point I noticed there was giant Jamón on a special stand behind the Snook. *drool*

    Langoustine

    These were like a langoustine, I think? With some sweet caramelised onions on top.

    More prawns

    Yet more prawns! At this point we were getting pretty full, and there was no sign of the parade of dishes coming to an end. I flagged down our charming waiter to ask him how much more there was to come. “Steak or fish?” he replied. “Steak,” I sighed.

    Our final “main” course was a beautifully rare steak along with garlic and rosemary fries. It was delicious, definitely the best steak we’d had since leaving Australia. We were so stuffed though!

    Us

    But we were feeling great. We drank an entire bottle of a local Catalan wine. That probably helped.

    Dessert was thankfully very light – just a couple scoops of lemon sorbet, and then our choice of a couple digestivs. I went for the cream liqueur, while the Snook went for the “Bruja” (which he said reminded him of grappa). What a great start to our Barcelona mini-break!

    (more…)


  • A long-delayed Italian pilgrimage

    In September, we went on a very special trip to Italy.

    As always with these travel posts, I have to put them in context. This one goes way back! Five years ago, I went to a special foodie symposium at the Sydney Opera House hosted by acclaimed Danish chef René Redzepi (from Noma). He was joined onstage by many other chefs, including David Chang (from Momofuku) and Massimo Bottura (from Osteria Francescana). The event was all about the future of food, how we eat as a society, how food and culture intersect and impact the environment, and the responsibility of chefs to educate. Not only are these guys all really smart, they’re literally the best in the world at what they do. When you get a chance to eat at one of their restaurants, you take it.

    Fast forward to September 2020, not long after we arrived in Germany. I started thinking about which bucket list restaurants we could visit in Europe, and I discovered that Osteria Francescana takes bookings six months in advance. It’s been rated the best restaurant in the world twice and currently has three Michelin stars. (Also, if you watched Master of None on Netflix, it was featured – along with Massimo himself – in Season 2.) Covid was still making everything uncertain, but we figured it was worth taking a gamble. The restaurant is very small (it only has 12 tables!!), but we managed to get a reservation for the following April. Unfortunately, we went into lockdown over winter and things were still very uncertain in March. The restaurant was open but we weren’t sure if we’d be able to get in/out of Italy without having to quarantine. Reluctantly, we cancelled the reservation and decided to try again. Thankfully we were able to get another booking for the following September, a full year after the initial idea. And happily, this time we were vaccinated and able to go.

    Train to Italy

    As usual, we decided to train it. We caught the EuroCity train from Munich to Bologna, travelling south across Austria through the Tyrolean Alps to Italy. The trip takes about 7 hours and features truly stunning scenery. We were lucky that that weather was perfect and we had great views of soaring bridges, charming villages, and hilltop fortresses. (Note: we wore masks the whole time and I only had him take it off briefly for the photo!)

    As we passed through Verona, a cheeky Capulet bit his thumb at me! 😂

    Biting his thumb!

    At Bologna we had to change trains for the short ride to Modena, our destination for the weekend. Modena is known for UNESCO World Heritage sites, balsamic vinegar, Enzo Ferrari, Luciano Pavarotti, and of course, a very special restaurant. We hauled our bags over to our hotel and the headed out into the city to explore.

    Piazza Roma

    We got to Piazza Roma just as the sun was setting. The Ducal Palace runs down one side and has fountains out in front.

    Ducal Palace

    I’d found a promising place for dinner so we went for a wander through the cobbled streets of the historic center.

    Modena at night

    We headed to Sosta Emiliana, where we grabbed a small table outside. The restaurant specialised in local delicacies from Emilia-Romagna like tigella (Modenese flatbreads), meats and cheeses, and sparkling Lambrusco. We went with platters that meant we got to taste a bit of everything!

    Sosta Emiliana

    On our way back to the hotel we passed the Duomo di Modena (Modena Cathedral), a UNESCO World Heritage site. It looked very dramatic lit up against the night sky.

    Duomo

    “Have we had too much Lambrusco or… is it leaning a bit?” we wondered. Definitely some funky angles going on there.

    Bell tower

    The next day the morning dawned hot and sunny. We had time to fill before our reservation, so we headed into the Parco Giardino Ducale Estense, the park that was formerly the gardens of the Ducal Palace. (As you can see, we dressed up a bit for our fancy lunch.)

    Park

    The old part of Modena is shaped almost like a pentagon so we went for a long stroll around it. This beautiful building on the Viale delle Rimembranze is actually a bank!

    Bank in Modena

    The Snook scoped out the local real estate prices.

    Real Estate agency

    We also went back to the Cathedral and ventured inside. (It’s where Pavarotti’s funeral was held!) It’s over 800 years old and features lots of different styles of carvings and embellishments. The stone lions next to the entrance date to the Roman times and were thought to have been found while digging the foundations. The Cathedral also features the burial site of St. Geminianus, the patron saint of Modena.

    We’d worked up quite an appetite by this point, so it was time to go to lunch! The restaurant entrance is quite unassuming with only a tiny sign, and we probably would’ve walked right past if not for the small group of people waiting nearby. We spent the time taking photographs with some of the other guests and gawking at the Maseratis and Ferraris parked down the street.

    Osteria Francescana

    And then we were ushered inside!

    Rather than a single big space, the restaurant had a few different rooms and we were in one with only four tables.  The walls were decorated with fine art and I felt a little daunted to be sitting there in a dress I’d sewn myself!

    At Osteria Francescana

    Buckle up, because you’re about to get a LOT of food photos…

    (more…)


  • Memory Vest and Digger Jacket

    I actually did finish a couple long-gestating knitting projects in 2021! Above you can see the Snook modelling his new cabled v-neck vest. He’s decided in recent years that he likes knitted vests, as he can still wear a jacket over them and not be too warm. The wool is Jo Sharp Silkroad DK Tweed from a packet that I bought in a Knitters Guild destash many years ago. It’s wonderfully soft and squooshy, and I knew it wouldn’t make him itch. (The colour is 419 Butternut, but to me it looks more like a golden cookie or a teddy bear.) The pattern is called Dr. G’s Memory Vest, and it was designed as a tribute to someone who suffered from dementia. I modified the pattern to be knitted in the round from the bottom up, and I worked on it off-and-on throughout the year. I also tweaked the length slightly as the Snook has a long torso. Doesn’t it look good against a blue shirt? More details over on Ravelry.

    Digger Jacket

    The other project I finished was the Digger Jacket. I actually started this project years ago when my cousin had her first child back in the US. I severely underestimated how quickly I can knit complicated intarsia though (or how frustrating dealing with hundreds of ends can be) so it took me a really long time to finish. By the time it was ready for the zipper, she was pregnant with her third son! I brought it to Germany with me so I could finally finish it off, and last month I was lucky enough to get to deliver it to her in the US. Obviously it’s a bit big for the little one right now, but he’ll grow into it. The wool is Morris Estate 8ply and I absolutely love the colours. As always, I tried to minimise sewing up by knitting the fronts and back together on a singular circular needle. The trade-off was that meant I had to knit all four machines at the same time, which got pretty complicated juggling all the different colours. I tried to simplify things a little by using duplicate stitch for the words and a few of the smaller details. I’m really charmed by how it turned out though, and the little one looks so adorable in it! More details on Rav…


  • A visit to Moominworld

    I’m kind of obsessed with Moomins. For the uninitiated, these are the titular characters from a series of books and comic strips by the Swedish-speaking Finnish author Tove Jansson. I’d never heard of them growing up, but way back in 2005 the Snook introduced them to me and I fell in love. The Moomins themselves are “trolls” but look like hippos and live in a tall, round blue house in the middle of Moominvalley. The stories are funny and droll, but also at times melancholy and gloomy and even occasionally scary. I’ve read most of the books since then (wellll, in truth Rodd has read them to me), watched some of the various animated series and films, collected some merch, and even visited the Moomincafe in Hong Kong (sadly since closed). For my birthday this year, the Snook even made me a Little My cake!

    At some point many years ago we learned that there is an actual Moominworld theme park in Finland. Earlier this year I remembered it and jokingly suggested to the Snook that we should go. Amazingly, the stars aligned and Covid restrictions eased enough that we were actually able to make it happen! Strap in folks; this is going to be a long post…

    On the train

    Rather than just fly to Finland, we decided to train it north through the Nordics and visit some new cities (and some of my colleagues!) along the way. Our first destination was Hamburg, a 6.5hr train ride from Munich. When we arrived at our hotel, we were delighted to find that it was just down the street from the Hamburger Dom Fun Fair!

    At the Hamburger Dom

    We decided to have fair food for dinner. I was intrigued by the stand offering a “half-meter bratwurst” (which they had to cut in half to fit in the bun!) as well as “Oma’s Gurkenfaß” (Grandma’s Pickle Barrel). The Snook also had freshly-made Marillenknödel (apricot doughnuts).

    After the fair, we went for a walk through Hamburg down to the Speicherstadt (“city of warehouses”), which used to be the heart of Hamburg’s working harbour. The Snook was very sceptical about our destination, a place that I’d been told by many was THE tourist destination in the city…

    Hamburg harbour

    Miniatur Wunderland! This place is the largest model railway in the world. It has 1300 trains across nine sections. The first one we came to was the American Wild West…

    Miniatur Wunderland

    We were only able to get timed tickets at 10:30pm, and it was still PACKED. It reminded me of the House on the Rock, in that it felt like an obsessive fever dream kind of place. Every fifteen minutes the lighting cycled through an entire day so you could see it all at night too. Some sections had buttons you could press that would cause things to happen, like a Ferris Wheel to start spinning or the Space Shuttle to take off.

    Did I mention it has a giant working airport?? Model plans take off and land through holes cut in the walls while little luggage trucks drive all over the place. It was CRAZY.

    Airport

    There are thousands of little scale figurines all over the place. Hilariously, apparently some of them are doing “rude” things and fans of the place try to catalog them all. We didn’t spot many, but it was pretty clear these folks in the sunflower field were enjoying themselves…

    Sunflower couple

    I think my favourite part was getting a glimpse into the control room that runs everything. It looks like Mission Control! It takes a lot of computing power and smart people to keep all the little trains, planes, cars, trucks, and boats moving.

    Mission Control

    The next day, we bought tickets for a “Hafenrundfahrt” (harbour tour) as it’s the best way to see the Speicherstadt.

    Hafenrundfahrt

    It was really cool to see all the old warehouses and canals. Apparently Hamburg has more bridges within its city limits than any other city in the world. (More than London, Amsterdam, and Venice put together!)

    Then we went out in to the harbour proper and saw the working port and some big sailing ships near the Maritime Museum.

    The sky had been threatening rain and it finally started to fall. Luckily our boat had a retractable roof so we didn’t get too wet! Our first glimpse of the Elbphilharmonie was through the rain…

    (more…)


  • We have been so lucky to get to travel this past summer! Another short trip that I haven’t documented yet was to Freiburg im Breisgau on the edge of the Black Forest. It’s only a couple hours from Munich on the train, so we headed there one Friday evening back in July.

    On the train to Freiburg

    Along the way we passed through Ulm and got a glimpse in the distance of Ulm Minster, currently the tallest church in the world. (It’ll be overtaken by the Sagrada Família in Barcelona someday if they ever finish it.)

    Ulm Minster

    It was a very pretty train trip, and the sun was setting as we arrived in Freiburg…

    Sunset

    We checked in to our hotel and eventually met up with our friend Scott, who drove down from Düsseldorf.

    Snookums and Scott

    On Saturday, we ventured out for breakfast. Freiburg is a very beautiful city, and it has a really interesting system of gutters called “Bächle“. (The word comes from “Bach,” which means “brook.”) These are fed by a nearby river and run all along the edges of the streets in the pedestrian area of the old town. There’s a legend that if you accidentally fall in one of the Bächle, you’ll end up marrying a Freiburger!

    Snookums over a Bächle

    The cafe where we had breakfast was actually called Bächle and it was, of course, right alongside one of them.

    Breakfast
    Our first destination was the Münsterplatz (Cathedral Square) around Freiburg Münster. As it was early Saturday, there was a market happening all around it. We checked out the architecture of the cathedral and watched the locals go about their shopping. (The Snook would like to draw your attention to the gargoyle in the upper-left of the 4th photo, where the rainwater comes out of a statue’s bum!)

    We continued to wander the old town…

    The old town in Freiburg

    Even the manhole covers were pretty!

    Freiburg manhole cover

    There are also canals that come off the river and feed into the Bächle. In one of them is a famous stone statue of a crocodile.

    Freiburg is in a famous wine-growing region, and near the city museum was a public garden that had lots of different grape varieties and flowers.

    At lunchtime we piled into Scott’s car and headed towards Schauinsland, a nearby mountain in the Black Forest. The name literally means “look-into-the-country,” and to get to the top of it we took the Schauinslandbahn, Germany’s longest cable car (3.6 kilometres / 2.2 mi).

    Schauinslandbahn

    The journey takes about 15 minutes, and the view kept getting more amazing the higher we went.

    Scott on the Schauinslandbahn

    Schauinslandbahn

    For the last part of the trip, I set my iPhone up on the window and made a time-lapse video. (You can also see it in better quality on Instagram.)

    The trip was well worth the view!

    Schauinsland

    Us on Schauinsland

    We had lunch at the restaurant on top of the mountain and then headed out for a hike. It turns out that silver, lead, and zinc were mined from the mountain for hundreds of years, and there were miles of mining tunnels beneath us. This tunnel was near the mining museum, and I believe if you go on a tour you may also get to go inside.

    Mining tunnel

    The boys quickly realised that the hike I was taking them on as a little more strenuous than they anticipated! We clambered up and down rocky paths around the top of the mountain for the better part of an hour.

    Hiking path

    One landmark on the mountain is the Engländerdenkmal (Englishmen’s Memorial). Basically, in 1936 a bunch of British schoolboys and their group leader went on an ill-advised hike over the mountain when a blizzard hit. Despite the efforts of the townspeople to save them, several of the boys died from exposure. A few years later a memorial was set up. It’s  a fascinating and tragic story

    Engländerdenkmal

    It was a pretty spot. I took a photo of the view from the wall.

    View from the Denkmal

    We continued our hike. The Snook was, as ever, concerned that he would get a tick bite. (Ticks love him.) (He didn’t.)

    On the hike

    We kept hearing bells all around us on the mountain, a constant soundtrack. What’s with the bells? Then we figured it out. 🐄

    We also found a sculpture path on the mountain (“Pfad der Sinne” – “Path of the Senses”) that had some really cool carved wood sculptures. You can see some of them online. This one was called “Der Geist des Waldes” (“The spirit of the forest”).

    The Spirit of the Forest

    We eventually returned to the Schauinslandbahn and rode it back down to the bottom, then headed back to Freiburg. We had a dinner reservation at local restaurant called Gasthaus Zur Linde that was recommended in the Michelin Guide. It was very nice, and we sampled quite a few local wines as well.

    Dinner at Gasthaus zur Linde

    Breakfast on Sunday was at Sam’s Cafe in Freiburg, and I went with the traditional “Freiburger Frühstück.”

    Freiburger Frühstück

    After our hike the day before, we felt like we deserved some pampering. So we got back into Scott’s car and headed for the nearby Keidel Thermal Baths. This large spa area had many heated indoor and outdoor thermal pools, and we spent a few hours swimming and floating and chatting in the sun. (No photos as I locked my phone up in the changing room!) As we were leaving, we noticed a sign pointing downstairs to an area where you can actually see the mineral hot spring that supplies the water.

    Hot spring

    We went for a final wander through Freiburg to check out the Bächle once more. It was a warm day, so there were often kids splashing or walking in it. I also saw several with little boats on a string that you could pull alongside you as you walked. (I’m still kicking myself I didn’t get one at the market as a souvenir!)

    Bächle

    More Bächle…

    Freiburg

    We had just enough time for a late lunch and round of beers at the Hausbrauerei Feierling Biergarten before we had to head to our train and Scott had to start back to Düsseldorf.

    Feierling Biergarten

    Lovely little excursion to yet another beautiful German town! ❤️


  • Summer Cycling Update

    It’s been a really long time since I updated you on my cycling! I didn’t rack up quite as many kilometers this summer as I’d hoped, mostly because we were travelling whenever we could and the weather was pretty rainy. I’m not far off the pace that I need for my yearlong 1000km goal, but I doubt I’ll get there given that it’s getting cold and we have more travel planned.

    Strava Progress - 745/1000 km

    I thought I’d share a few of the more notable long rides I’ve done. One back in May was to Messestadt Riem.

    My destination was about 15km across Munich. I found a route on Komoot and headed off, with the Snook following on the train. One landmark on the way there was St. Michael’s church in Berg am Laim. I was sweaty so I didn’t go inside, but it was very pretty. For the route, I avoided the main roads and mostly went through residential areas and parks.

    Messestadt Riem (literally “Convention City Riem”) is one of Munich’s newest suburbs and was built on the grounds of an old airport. It has a big convention center, of course, as well as a large park with a man-made lake. The Snook had brought us a picnic lunch, so we walked through the park and found a spot to enjoy our sandwiches. Lots of folks were out and about.

    Picnic

    We walked around the lake and the “beach,” then climbed the “Hügel” (hill) to check out the view. It was surreal to see a lake with folks playing beach volleyball, with snow-capped mountains on the horizon!

    I parted with the Snook at the train station and climbed back onboard my bike for the ride home. I went by the more direct route, using the bike path alongside the road.

    So all up, that ride was about 30km / 18.5 miles!

    In June I did an even longer one of about 35km, heading north along the Isar river and into the far part of the Englischer Garten that I’d never visited before.

    It was a warm and sunny day but the clouds were moving in rapidly. (Yes, I wore sunscreen!) This was one of the canals that splits off as the Isar moves north out of the city.

    Crossing the Isar

    Here’s the river properly, far up near the suburb of Ismaning. I had reached my turnaround point and started heading back when I noticed this rocky little beach and stopped for a rest. There was a large group having a barbecue. That box in the river is actually their cooler filled with drinks! Müncheners love swimming and playing in the Isar.

    Party in the Isar

    I rode up the east side of the river as I headed out, but for the return journey I crossed over one the bridges so I could head back on the west side.

    Crossing over again

    Whenever I’m doing these really long rides, I’ve started bringing snacks along so I can refuel at the halfway point. I found a nice little bench and stepped aside for some peanuts, dried fruit, and one of my last Aussie snacks… ❤️

    Snack time

    Unbeknownst to me, the weather was about to take a turn. A sudden downpour of very cold rain had me huddling under a tree, waiting for it to pass…

    Ew, rain!

    Fortunately it passed quickly and I was able to finish the ride. The Snook met me at the biergarten so I could celebrate my longest ride yet!

    The reward - beer!

    A month later I broke my record again, this time on a ride to the southwest through Forstenrieder Park all the way to the village of Buchendorf and back. This was a beautiful ride that I really enjoyed… but it ended in TRAUMA! (More about that in a minute.)

    As you can see, I was really excited to head off. I had recently invested in some proper cycling shorts with extra butt padding, so I was feeling pretty confident about this ride.

    Cycling update

    Part of my planned path was along the Würm River, a small tributary of the Amper that eventually ends in the Danube. It flows through a few small villages, which were all very pretty. These photos were near Gräfelfing.

    The route I had was from Komoot again, and it was mostly on paved and gravel bike paths. It’s so gorgeous here. People are always like, why did you move from Australia to Germany? JUST LOOK AT THAT! So much green! I just can’t get enough of it.

    Forest

    Feeling good

    Eventually I popped out of the forest and found myself in cornfields! It was so surreal. Almost felt like Indiana!

    Cornfields

    I crossed the Würm again at the village of Gauting and saw this historic water wheel (aka Wasserrad) that used to power a local papermill.

    Water wheel

    This was after I’d passed through Buchendorf, the village that marked the middle-point of the ride. I found myself riding through gentle rolling fields under an amazing blue sky.

    Wide open skies

    As you can see, I was getting a bit sweaty and tired. I was also feeling some soreness in my bum, despite all the padding in my new shorts. I was starting to suspect that the big cushy seat on the Swapfiets bike wasn’t actually doing me any favours…

    Legs

    I found a bench in Forstenrieder Park to eat my snack and have a rest.

    Snack time

    I made the rest of the trip home without incident, and I was feeling pretty proud at having managed such a long ride. NOW WE COME TO THE TRAUMA. Later that night, showered and fed, I was sitting on the sofa in a pair of shorts when the Snook looked at me and said, “Is your leg bleeding?!” Folks, I had a big bruised wound high up on my thigh that had actually burst somehow without me noticing it. It was basically a boil or a saddle sore that had formed from rubbing against the bike seat. We cleaned it up, put on an antiseptic, and bandaged it up. I also took a photo so I could show my doctor the next day via a tele-appointment. “Yeah, you’re fine,” he said. (These German doctors!) So yeah, my first saddle sore. Not fun!

    That was basically the impetus I needed to finally buy a new bike. By August, I had found one on Ebay and paid €250 for it. It’s a hybrid (meaning a cross between a road bike and a mountain bike) from local Munich cyclery 2rad.

    My bike

    It’s a couple years old, so I’ve made some upgrades and modifications since I got it. It originally came with a basket on the back but I took it off since I don’t really use it much. I took it into 2rad for a check-up, and they ended up replacing the brake pads for me and one of the chain links. One of the tire tubes had a leak, so Rodd and I managed to put in a new one. I also bought a new pair of handle grips to replace the old foam ones, and I got a hand-pump that I mounted on the frame. (I carry a patch kit and tire levers in my hydration pack, but I’m thinking of getting a little saddle bag.) It’s so much lighter than the Swapfiets bike! It’s also got more gears (27!) and consequently I’m finding it a lot easier to get up hills. And most importantly, the new seat is narrower and so far I’m finding it a lot more comfortable for long rides.

    The first long ride I took her on was – where else? – along the Isar through the Englischer Garten.

    Thankfully the flooding we saw earlier in the summer had mostly dissipated by September and the Isar was back to its normal size.

    Isar

    I couldn’t resist swinging by the Eisbachwelle to see if there were many surfers there. Yeah, there were a lot!

    Eisbachwelle

    There were also plenty of folks taking advantage of the beautiful weather at the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower) biergarten.

    Chinese Tower

    Every time I ride through the English Garten, I see something new. This time it was a field of sunflowers waving at me across a fence, and an old hydro power station across the river.

    Snack time! You can also see in the background here the last bike-related purchase I made – a helmet. They aren’t required here, but I’m trying to get into the habit of wearing, especially for my long rides. I got a plain white Skullcap helmet and I’ve been having some fun decorating it with stickers.

    Snack time

    My return trip took me back through the city, and I was happy to see a concert and arts festival happening in the Odeonsplatz. The “net” hanging above is actually an artwork by Janet Echelmann, and it looks incredibly beautiful lit up at night.

    Odeonsplatz

    As I was waiting at a red light near home, I heard a loud jingling noise. To my delight, all traffic stopped as the Augustiner Bräu bierwagen drove past, pulled by a team of horses and carrying a couple beardy Bavarians in lederhosen. Official Oktoberfest may have been cancelled, but Müncheners still celebrated where they could!

    Bierwagen

    The last long ride I did was just last weekend, a giant loop that took me on a greatest hits tour of Munich…

    The first stop was Nymphenburg Palace, which we visited last year. My route took me across the bridge that crosses the Nymphenburger Kanal. I stopped midway to look back towards the palace. That’s it way off in the distance in that first photo. The other is looking in the opposite direction, down the canal…

    There’s also an even smaller offshoot of the canal called the Biedersteiner, and I rode along that for a bit.

    Biedersteiner Kanal

    My next stop was Olympiapark, site of the Munich Olympics. Honestly, the juxtaposition of the green grass and the blue sky was so stunning I had to stop and take this photo. (Note to self: go back there in the winter and sled down that hill!)

    Olympia Park

    There were lots of folks enjoying the day, boating on the little lake, and hiking the hills.

    Olympiaturm

    Eventually I headed home via the Englischer Garten and the Isar, and I finished at the Altstadt. It’s a pedestrian area so I had to walk my bike through the Marienplatz. It was looking very pretty, with baskets of flowers in Autumn colours all along the front.

    Marienplatz

    I think that pretty much brings you up to date! Here’s a view of my Heat Map of where I’ve ridden in Munich. The really bright areas are from my shorter trips to the office or through the local parks, but all those little red tendrils are from my longer rides. Pretty neat! If you’re on Strava, you can follow me there and see if I managed to make my 1000km goal after all…

    Cycling Heat Map


  • A return to Heidelberg

    When I was 17, I spent six weeks in the summer of 1994 living and studying in Krefeld, Germany as part of the Indiana University Honors Program in Foreign Languages. There were about thirty of us, and we spent most of our time living with host families and going to class in the city. We did make a couple of group trips though, including one to Heidelberg to visit the famous Schloß Heidelberg. I remember vividly that it was my favourite castle in all of Germany. (I even posted some photos on my very first website way back in 1996!)

    Fast forward 27 years…

    On the train

    After a Covid “Schnelltest” first thing in the morning, we boarded the train from Munich to Heidelberg. We’d decided to splurge and go for first class (mostly because you can reserve a seat that way), and to our surprise we had an entire compartment to ourselves! The trip was around 4 hours and we got there around lunchtime.

    Altstadt

    We dropped off our bags at our hotel and headed down into the Altstadt. Heidelberg’s historic main street is quite a bit longer than a lot of other cities, and there were plenty of folks out and about.

    Down a side street we caught a glimpse of the Brückentor (bridge gate) at the Alte Brücke (Old Bridge) across the Neckar River. We also stopped to check out the lovely pink stone Jesuitenkirche (Jesuit Church). But our stomachs were growling, and we had a very special destination in mind for lunch…

    Schnookeloch

    The Schnookeloch! Somehow when we were planning the trip, the Snook noticed that there was a historic guesthouse with his name (sort of) on it. 😂 As near we can figure out, “Schnooke” in the local dialect refers to jokes or pranks, and “Loch” is German for “hole.” Fitting name for a very old student pub!

    The burgers and beers were pretty good! On my way to the bathrooms, I noticed that the tables inside were covered in hundreds of student graffiti carvings. Pretty neat! But it was finally time to head to the castle…

    Funicular

    We took the Heidelberger Bergbahn funicular railway up to the castle. Interestingly, I don’t remember taking that back in 1994. I suspect that our tour bus simply drove us up to the castle. (Any other IUHPFL alumni remember?)

    Heidelberg and the Neckar

    The castle is a beautiful ruin. As far back as the 19th century there were debates about whether to fully restore it, but thankfully the decision was made it leave most of it alone. The way it looks now is pretty much the same as when Mark Twain visited and wrote about it in 1880. My memories of it from 27 years ago were mostly about being an overly dramatic teenager and swanning about moodily thinking about Romantic poets. (I still can’t quite believe I’m getting to revisit some of these places again.)

    After walking around the castle walls, we headed into the courtyard in search of the Großes Fass (Big Barrel), also known as the Heidelberg Tun

    Rumoured to be the world’s largest wine barrel, I definitely remembered visiting it back in 1994. But… I remembered it being a lot bigger? Confused, we rounded the next corner and—OH. That’s the big barrel. 😂

    Big Barrel

    That’s more like it! We made the circuit up the stairs to the viewing platform on the top, then back down the other side. With a Snookums for scale:

    Snookums and the big barrel

    We headed back out to walk around the gardens behind the castle. The views of the city were glorious. The castle isn’t really as high up the hill as I’d remembered. The weather was overcast but hot.

    Heidelberg

    We headed back to the funicular to go even higher. The castle is at 120m above sea level, but you can ride up to Molkenkur at 289m and then switch to the older line to go up to the Königstuhl at 550m. The old line is slower and smaller and doesn’t run as frequently, so we had to wait a while to board. The trip on the upper section takes about 10 minutes and at times you’re climbing a 41% grade! 😳

    But it’s all worth it for that view…

    View from Königstuhl

    There’s a hotel at the top of the mountain, as well as an observatory, a falconry (?!), a kids’ fairytale park, and many walking trails. We decided to follow the family walking trail, marked with these rather creepy signs…

    Nature trail signs

    We saw very few other people.

    Snookums

    The family trail was a big loop and had some rustic play areas. The Snook found a brilliant orange slug and took a photo of it. There were also several creepy structures built out of old tree branches, which gave off a very witchy fairytale vibe.

    We caught the funicular back down the mountain and walked through the Altstadt again. Back down by the Alte Brücke we patiently waited our turn to take a photo with the famous Brückenaffe (Bridge Monkey), who’s meant to bring you luck. 🐵

    Monkeys
    I should mention that I made heavy use of this blog post for planning our time in Heidelberg. We took the author’s advice and headed to the Vetter’s Alt Heidelberger-Brauhaus for dinner, and everything was delicious!

    Vetter’s Alt Brauhaus

    That was a pretty big day. My smartwatch says we did nearly 19K steps! We headed back to the hotel to crash.

    The next morning, we took advantage of the fact that Heidelberg is a university town to have a hipster cafe breakfast at deer. (Honestly, going out for breakfast is the #1 thing I’ve missed in Corona lockdown.) The Snook was very, very happy with his pourover…

    Cafe breakfast

    After breakfast we headed back to the Altstadt and finally crossed the Alte Brücke.

    Crossing the bridge

    Our goal was the Philosophenweg (Philosopher’s Way), a walking path high up on the other side of the Neckar. To get to it, we decided to climb the Schlangenweg (Snake’s Way). This is an old narrow vineyard path that climbs nearly 90m as it snakes back and forth up the hillside, with stone walls on either side of you. It was actually pretty gruelling, and thankfully there are a couple spots with benches to stop and take in the view.

    We even saw sheep!

    Sheep above the Neckar

    We finally reached the Philosophenweg, which was thankfully flat. We meandered past more vineyards and gardens with lovely flowers. At one point, there was an outlook with some seats, and an old man was playing the guitar. It was heavenly.

    We slowly made our way back down to city level. At the end of the Philosophenweg is the Philosophengarten, which was a riot of colourful blooms.

    Philosophengarten

    I took advantage of the backdrop to take some cute photos of us.

    We walked past many university buildings and charming houses. This one was one of my favourites. It has a poem painted on the side:

    House

    Behüt dies Haus
    von Wetter und Wind
    und Menschen die langweilig sind.

    “Watch over this house
    from weather and wind
    and people who are boring.”

    We checked out of the hotel and stashed our bags in a locker at the train station. Then we hopped on a bus and headed to the nearby town of Schwetzingen. This hadn’t been part of our original plan, but I realised when looking at my old website that the IUHPFL trip had included a stop at Schloß Schwetzingen and the Snook cleverly figured out how to get there. More nostalgia! When we got to Schwetzingen, we had a quick lunch at a Mexican restaurant near the palace.

    Mexican lunch

    Then we headed over to the palace…

    Schloss Schwetzingen

    I remember that, as a 17-year-old from Indiana, stepping into that formal garden felt like Alice going into Wonderland. I’d never seen anything like it in my entire life.

    Schwetzingen gardens

    The garden was established just as the more formal French style was giving way to the English landscape garden, so it’s unique in the way it tries to marry the two.

    Geometry

    While the central vista features strict geometrical beds, topiary, and large fountains, the sides and back have more rambly, natural feeling paths with hidden grottoes and follies.

    Pan’s grotto

    I was most looking forward to The Temple of Apollo. I remember spending a big chunk of my time in the garden back in 1994 having lunch on the lawn in front of the temple, swooning about and pretending to be a pagan. It looked exactly as I’d remembered.

    Temple of Apollo

    We were delighted to find out you can actually go under/inside the monument and peek out behind the fountain.

    Snookums in the fountain

    We also came across the Vogelbad (bird bath), an over-the-top circular aviary built around a fountain, where dozens of bird sculptures perched around the roof spit water down into the center.

    Vogelbad

    In the alcoves around the sides were many living birds, including quite a few from Australia! Here’s the Snook chatting with the budgerigars.

    Budgies

    The far end of the palace gardens have a lake of sorts with little brooks with bridges over them. It’s all very charming.

    The lake

    We noticed that the Snook bore a resemblance to the statue of the Danube river god…

    Snookums the river god

    …and happily, we found my doppelgänger in a statue of Athena. She’s clearly taking a selfie! 😂

    Athena selfie

    Rain was threatening, so it was time to leave the palace and catch the bus back to Heidelberg. We collected our suitcases and then hopped on the train back to Munich, getting back late Sunday night. I honestly never expected to get to visit these places again in my life, so it was such a special and unique treat to see these sights again! ❤️


  • A Day on the Chiemsee

    After only glimpsing the Chiemsee from a distance on our trip to Salzburg, we knew we needed to head back on a nice day. It’s a large freshwater lake with several islands you can visit, including one with a palace! So when a suitable weather forecast presented itself a few weeks back, we caught the train southeast from Munich towards Prien am Chiemsee

    Chiemsee-Bahn

    But not this train, of course. We took a modern train from Munich. This little green steam train is actually the Chiemsee-Bahn, which runs about a mile from the main station in Prien down to the edge of the lake. You could easily walk that distance, but we couldn’t resist getting to ride on heritage-listed choo-choo!

    On the Chiemsee-Bahn

    The train lets you out right at the water and then the engine detaches, spins around on a turntable, and hooks up to head back the other direction.

    Prien-Stock terminus

    All of the Chiemsee ferries and cruises depart from this landing, and there are restaurants, a Ferris wheel, boat rental, a promenade, a swimming center, and lots of folks just hanging out, enjoying the weather. The view of the lake was really spectacular.

    Chiemsee

    We hopped on a ferry and headed to the Herreninsel (“Men’s island”), the largest one and the one with the palace.

    Snookums on a ferry

    When you get to the island, you end up at a visitor center next to an old Augustinian Monastery. There’s about a 20 minute walk to the Herrenchiemsee Palace, or you can take a horse carriage ride. We went for the walk, strolling through a beautiful shady wood…

    The walk to Herrenchiemsee

    We eventually reached a break in the woods and stepped out into a formal garden, straight out of Versailles! 😳

    Herrenchiemsee

    It’s not accidental. It was built by King Ludwig II as the third and last of his famous castles (after Neuschwanstein and Linderhof), and he deliberately modelled it after Versailles. Dude had a fixation with Louis XIV! Several of the fountains are copies of ones at the French palace. (They weren’t running constantly; it seems like they were going every half an hour on the day we were there.)

    The only way to see inside the palace is to book a tour, and I was lucky enough to get us on one of the few English versions. It was us and two other couples, and the tour guide took us inside and through all of the completed rooms. Unfortunately photography wasn’t allowed, but you can see some pictures on the Wikipedia page. One thing I found fascinating was that Ludwig had his architects copy Versailles pretty closely, but he also built in secret “modern” technology, like central heating from furnaces under the palace. He also had a trap door under his dining table, which cranked up and down like an elevator so it could magically appear with food on it! The Hall of Mirrors was spectacular, as was the world’s largest Meissen porcelain chandelier. Sadly, Ludwig ran out of money before the palace was finished, and he only spent like ten days there before he mysteriously died at 40. (Nowadays they use the unfinished part to host art exhibitions.)

    View towards Chiemsee

    Leaving the palace, you look across the sunken formal garden all the way to the Chiemsee in the distance!

    After a wander back to ferry landing, we caught another boat over to the Fraueninsel (“ladies’ island”).

    Ferry to Fraueninsel

    While the Herreninsel is mainly a tourist destination, the Fraueninsel has a Benedictine convent and a little village of about 300. It’s car-free, so we had a lovely time walking around and checking out all the little houses and shops. I noticed that several of the places had rental details on them, and I can’t imagine a more beautiful place to spend a week just chilling out. We were also delighted to spot some familiar flags. There are Antipodeans living on Fraueninsel! 🇦🇺🇳🇿

    We took another small cruise to end the day, but we were getting a bit sunburnt and tired at this point!

    Snook on a boat

    To get home, we disembarked at Prien Stock and took the Chiemsee-Bahn back to Prien train station, before catching the regional train back to Munich. Lovely day out on the water!


  • Darlow Pants

    I sewed pants! 👖

    For a really long time, trousers have been my Mount Everest as a sewist. I’ve sewed lots of dresses, shirts, and even shorts, but never a pair of actual trousers. I made a valiant but cursed attempt last year at a muslin for the Moji pants by Seamwork before accepting that a drawstring waist was never going to work with my shape…

    Then a few months back I started to see the Darlow pants from In the Folds popping up in my Instagram feed. “No way,” I thought. Those curving seams?! These aren’t straight up-and-down pants; they have multiple curvy pieces that swoop around the legs and create volume. It seemed like jumping several levels of difficulty. The style was also slouchier and baggier than what I normally wear. But then I clicked on the #darlowpants hashtag, and I was able to see them on different body types and in different materials, and I started to think, “…maybe??”

    I bought the pattern. Back in Australia I’d purchased several meters of a soft drill-type fabric for future pants — I never remember to write down the fabric I buy — and I’d shipped it all the way here. It seemed a shame to let it go to waste. Why not give it a go?

    I decided to go with View B, which is the less voluminous version and has less pattern pieces. I cut a straight Size I and printed out all the pattern pieces and assembled. Just as I was about to lay out my fabric for cutting, I realised there was one crucial modification I needed to make right from the start – lengthening the legs! The pattern is drafted for someone 5’7”, and I’m 5’10”. So I added three inches at all of the length/shorten lines. This isn’t as straightforward as on normal pants, as the curving lines mean you have to redraw some curves and then “walk the seams” to ensure they still line up. (Thankfully the designer has provided a Fit Kit which walks you through several common modifications.)

    Finally it was time to cut the fabric and start sewing! The first thing you assemble are the back panels, and I had a lot of fun using my special overlocker foot and stitch to finish the raw edges. Once the panels are sewn, you then create the rear welt pockets. I decided to make them a design feature by using some scraps of paisley fabric. The pattern instructions are pretty straightforward and suggest several places where you should hand-baste just to keep everything all lined up. Everything went well until I got to Step 23, when I got confused and just couldn’t figure out how to secure the welt. I ended up emailing the designer, who helpfully sent me a video that explained everything. The key is that Piece 17 (the pocket lining) needs to be folded up under the back panel and out of the way for Step 23. Then you’re meant to fold the welt on Piece 18 and then sew along it. If you look at the photo here, you can just see a line of white stitching at the bottom of each welt. That’s where I did it WRONG. Mine isn’t securing anything; it’s actually meant to go through both layers of the paisley fabric. Oh well – I’ll get it right on the next pair! (Note: the bodgy red stitching along the top is just hand-basting to keep the pocket flat while you assemble the rest of the pants.)

    Welt Pockets

    The rest of the pants assembly was pretty easy – even those big curvy bits! – and you end up inserting nice deep pockets into the side seams. Then it was time to insert the zip. I’ve sewn zippers before, but only side-seam ones. I decided that I really wanted a quality metal zip rather than futzing about with crappy nylon ones. I made a pilgrimage to a local haberdasher – which was amazing – and got everything I needed. I was nervous about inserting it, but the instructions were great and again had you baste things together to keep everything lined up. And guess what? IT LOOKS LIKE A REAL PROFESSIONAL ZIP!

    The waistband assembly was pretty simple. You have the option of binding the inside edge with bias binding or enclosing it within the waistband. I had some leftover binding from a previous project so I went with that, and it actually makes it look really nice. Then I just needed to add a buttonhole, sew on a button, and also sew on a trouser hook for the tab. Here’s what it looks like on the inside…

    Inside out waist

    And here are the welt pockets from the inside as well.

    Welt Pockets

    The final step was to finish and sew on the hem facings to the legs. And then they were DONE!

    As a wearable muslin, I’m pretty happy with these! I think the three inches I added to the length was just right. There are definitely some fitting issues remaining though. You can’t tell in the photo, but I think I actually need to go down a size in the waist (but leave the size through the hip) – they’re actually quite loose around my middle. (And since there are no belt loops, you can’t really cinch it up.) I also think I need to add a bit more room to the seat, possibly by extending the back crotch point. But still – entirely wearable PANTS! I’m looking forward to making the next pair even better. 🙂


  • Wolfie! A Trip to Salzburg

    It’s summer in Deutschland, and now that we’ve had our first vaccine shot, we feel a bit more comfortable travelling again. Two weeks ago we headed out of Munich for the first time since the Zugspitze last year. And where did we go? Salzburg, Austria.

    On the trainWe actually started the day with a Covid Schnelltest at our local shopping center. Austria has lifted a lot of its restrictions, but we knew that it was important to have a negative test result. By the time we got to the Hauptbahnhof (central train station) 20min later, the results were in our email inboxes. Protip: Bavaria offers a special discount ticket called the Bayern Ticket, which lets you ride regional trains and most public transport through Bavaria. It also gets you to Salzburg, which is about two hours from Munich. The weather forecast was for clouds, but it was a beautiful sunny day as we headed southeast towards the mountains, whizzing through idyllic German villages and rolling green fields…

    First glimpse of SalzburgWe crossed the Salzach River and got our first glimpse of the Festung Hohensalzburg (“High Salzburg Fortress”) atop the Festungsberg as we pulled into our destination. I had planned some activities based on this blog post, including booking tickets up to the castle. We had a few hours to kill though, so we started by walking to the Altstadt along the river. We crossed over at the Marko-Feingold-Steg, a pedestrian bridge decorated by visitors with thousands of padlocks.

    Snookums on the Marko-Feingold-StegWe headed to Getreidegasse (“Grain Lane”), a busy shopping street in the heart of the old town. It’s narrow and historic and super charming, even despite the fact that many of the shops were the same as you’d see in any major city. It was also surprisingly busy, and I found myself feeling a little wary of all the unmasked folks! (It’s been a long lockdown. 🙁)

    GetreidegasseIt was lunchtime and we were hungry, so we headed to the Zipfer Bierhaus. We got a table out the back in University Square and enjoyed a couple plates of sausages along with some local Austrian brew…

    Zipfer BierhausOur next stop was back on Getreidegasse – Mozarts Geburtshaus (Mozart’s birthplace). It was fairly empty at the time, and we enjoyed wandering the rooms and  learning a bit more about his life and his family. Did you know that Mozart’s sister Maria Anna (nicknamed “Nannerl” by the family) was also a musical child prodigy, but because she was a girl, she eventually had to stop touring and performing? (I found myself feeling so angry on her behalf.) I was also surprised to see that pianos in Mozart’s day had the black and white keys reversed!

    Mozarts GeburtshausWe ended the tour in the gift shop, of course, where I bought a cool lenticular magnet to add to our collection. They had a TV set up showing scenes from Amadeus, and I confessed to the Snook that I’d never seen it. That was going to have to be rectified, I decided…

    Mozarts GeburtshausAnd then it was time to head up to the fortress! We caught the Festungsbahn (funicular) up to the top and were greeted with stunning views across the city to the mountains beyond.

    View from Festung HohensalzburgThe day was turning out pretty hot, so we headed into the Zeughaus (Armory) Museum to cool off and learn about medieval weaponry. They had a lot of interactive exhibits, including a kiosk where you could picture yourself as a knight. The Snook also enjoyed creating virtual gunpowder and seeing how far he could fire a cannon.

    The real highlight of the Festung is the view over the city. How stunning is this? This is why we came to Europe. ❤️

    Me and Snookums It really was quite hot though. 😅 We were also getting tired from all the walking so we caught a quick rest in the shade.

    Catching some shadeOur tickets also included access to the Prince’s Chambers, the richly appointed staterooms installed by Prince-Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach. My favourite part was the Golden Hall, with its 17m-long beam, carved columns, and decorated ceiling.

    Golden HallAnd from every window, an amazing view…

    MountainsWe were really flagging by this point, so we caught the funicular back down to the Altstadt. In need of refreshment, we headed to the nearby Stiegl-Keller where I was delighted to sample their Grapefruit Radler in the rooftop biergarten. What a way to end the day!

    Stiegl-KellerWe walked back to the Hauptbahnhof and caught the return train to Munich, exhausted and happy. What a perfect day! Can’t wait to do more exploring over the next few months…

    OH! And the first thing we did back in Munich? Watch Amadeus, of course. I loved it. ❤️