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A visit to Moominworld

I’m kind of obsessed with Moomins. For the uninitiated, these are the titular characters from a series of books and comic strips by the Swedish-speaking Finnish author Tove Jansson. I’d never heard of them growing up, but way back in 2005 the Snook introduced them to me and I fell in love. The Moomins themselves are “trolls” but look like hippos and live in a tall, round blue house in the middle of Moominvalley. The stories are funny and droll, but also at times melancholy and gloomy and even occasionally scary. I’ve read most of the books since then (wellll, in truth Rodd has read them to me), watched some of the various animated series and films, collected some merch, and even visited the Moomincafe in Hong Kong (sadly since closed). For my birthday this year, the Snook even made me a Little My cake!

At some point many years ago we learned that there is an actual Moominworld theme park in Finland. Earlier this year I remembered it and jokingly suggested to the Snook that we should go. Amazingly, the stars aligned and Covid restrictions eased enough that we were actually able to make it happen! Strap in folks; this is going to be a long post…

On the train

Rather than just fly to Finland, we decided to train it north through the Nordics and visit some new cities (and some of my colleagues!) along the way. Our first destination was Hamburg, a 6.5hr train ride from Munich. When we arrived at our hotel, we were delighted to find that it was just down the street from the Hamburger Dom Fun Fair!

At the Hamburger Dom

We decided to have fair food for dinner. I was intrigued by the stand offering a “half-meter bratwurst” (which they had to cut in half to fit in the bun!) as well as “Oma’s Gurkenfaß” (Grandma’s Pickle Barrel). The Snook also had freshly-made Marillenknödel (apricot doughnuts).

After the fair, we went for a walk through Hamburg down to the Speicherstadt (“city of warehouses”), which used to be the heart of Hamburg’s working harbour. The Snook was very sceptical about our destination, a place that I’d been told by many was THE tourist destination in the city…

Hamburg harbour

Miniatur Wunderland! This place is the largest model railway in the world. It has 1300 trains across nine sections. The first one we came to was the American Wild West…

Miniatur Wunderland

We were only able to get timed tickets at 10:30pm, and it was still PACKED. It reminded me of the House on the Rock, in that it felt like an obsessive fever dream kind of place. Every fifteen minutes the lighting cycled through an entire day so you could see it all at night too. Some sections had buttons you could press that would cause things to happen, like a Ferris Wheel to start spinning or the Space Shuttle to take off.

Did I mention it has a giant working airport?? Model plans take off and land through holes cut in the walls while little luggage trucks drive all over the place. It was CRAZY.

Airport

There are thousands of little scale figurines all over the place. Hilariously, apparently some of them are doing “rude” things and fans of the place try to catalog them all. We didn’t spot many, but it was pretty clear these folks in the sunflower field were enjoying themselves…

Sunflower couple

I think my favourite part was getting a glimpse into the control room that runs everything. It looks like Mission Control! It takes a lot of computing power and smart people to keep all the little trains, planes, cars, trucks, and boats moving.

Mission Control

The next day, we bought tickets for a “Hafenrundfahrt” (harbour tour) as it’s the best way to see the Speicherstadt.

Hafenrundfahrt

It was really cool to see all the old warehouses and canals. Apparently Hamburg has more bridges within its city limits than any other city in the world. (More than London, Amsterdam, and Venice put together!)

Then we went out in to the harbour proper and saw the working port and some big sailing ships near the Maritime Museum.

The sky had been threatening rain and it finally started to fall. Luckily our boat had a retractable roof so we didn’t get too wet! Our first glimpse of the Elbphilharmonie was through the rain…

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A Trip to Freiburg im Breisgau

We have been so lucky to get to travel this past summer! Another short trip that I haven’t documented yet was to Freiburg im Breisgau on the edge of the Black Forest. It’s only a couple hours from Munich on the train, so we headed there one Friday evening back in July.

On the train to Freiburg

Along the way we passed through Ulm and got a glimpse in the distance of Ulm Minster, currently the tallest church in the world. (It’ll be overtaken by the Sagrada Família in Barcelona someday if they ever finish it.)

Ulm Minster

It was a very pretty train trip, and the sun was setting as we arrived in Freiburg…

Sunset

We checked in to our hotel and eventually met up with our friend Scott, who drove down from Düsseldorf.

Snookums and Scott

On Saturday, we ventured out for breakfast. Freiburg is a very beautiful city, and it has a really interesting system of gutters called “Bächle“. (The word comes from “Bach,” which means “brook.”) These are fed by a nearby river and run all along the edges of the streets in the pedestrian area of the old town. There’s a legend that if you accidentally fall in one of the Bächle, you’ll end up marrying a Freiburger!

Snookums over a Bächle

The cafe where we had breakfast was actually called Bächle and it was, of course, right alongside one of them.

Breakfast
Our first destination was the Münsterplatz (Cathedral Square) around Freiburg Münster. As it was early Saturday, there was a market happening all around it. We checked out the architecture of the cathedral and watched the locals go about their shopping. (The Snook would like to draw your attention to the gargoyle in the upper-left of the 4th photo, where the rainwater comes out of a statue’s bum!)

We continued to wander the old town…

The old town in Freiburg

Even the manhole covers were pretty!

Freiburg manhole cover

There are also canals that come off the river and feed into the Bächle. In one of them is a famous stone statue of a crocodile.

Freiburg is in a famous wine-growing region, and near the city museum was a public garden that had lots of different grape varieties and flowers.

At lunchtime we piled into Scott’s car and headed towards Schauinsland, a nearby mountain in the Black Forest. The name literally means “look-into-the-country,” and to get to the top of it we took the Schauinslandbahn, Germany’s longest cable car (3.6 kilometres / 2.2 mi).

Schauinslandbahn

The journey takes about 15 minutes, and the view kept getting more amazing the higher we went.

Scott on the Schauinslandbahn

Schauinslandbahn

For the last part of the trip, I set my iPhone up on the window and made a time-lapse video. (You can also see it in better quality on Instagram.)

The trip was well worth the view!

Schauinsland

Us on Schauinsland

We had lunch at the restaurant on top of the mountain and then headed out for a hike. It turns out that silver, lead, and zinc were mined from the mountain for hundreds of years, and there were miles of mining tunnels beneath us. This tunnel was near the mining museum, and I believe if you go on a tour you may also get to go inside.

Mining tunnel

The boys quickly realised that the hike I was taking them on as a little more strenuous than they anticipated! We clambered up and down rocky paths around the top of the mountain for the better part of an hour.

Hiking path

One landmark on the mountain is the Engländerdenkmal (Englishmen’s Memorial). Basically, in 1936 a bunch of British schoolboys and their group leader went on an ill-advised hike over the mountain when a blizzard hit. Despite the efforts of the townspeople to save them, several of the boys died from exposure. A few years later a memorial was set up. It’s  a fascinating and tragic story

Engländerdenkmal

It was a pretty spot. I took a photo of the view from the wall.

View from the Denkmal

We continued our hike. The Snook was, as ever, concerned that he would get a tick bite. (Ticks love him.) (He didn’t.)

On the hike

We kept hearing bells all around us on the mountain, a constant soundtrack. What’s with the bells? Then we figured it out. 🐄

We also found a sculpture path on the mountain (“Pfad der Sinne” – “Path of the Senses”) that had some really cool carved wood sculptures. You can see some of them online. This one was called “Der Geist des Waldes” (“The spirit of the forest”).

The Spirit of the Forest

We eventually returned to the Schauinslandbahn and rode it back down to the bottom, then headed back to Freiburg. We had a dinner reservation at local restaurant called Gasthaus Zur Linde that was recommended in the Michelin Guide. It was very nice, and we sampled quite a few local wines as well.

Dinner at Gasthaus zur Linde

Breakfast on Sunday was at Sam’s Cafe in Freiburg, and I went with the traditional “Freiburger Frühstück.”

Freiburger Frühstück

After our hike the day before, we felt like we deserved some pampering. So we got back into Scott’s car and headed for the nearby Keidel Thermal Baths. This large spa area had many heated indoor and outdoor thermal pools, and we spent a few hours swimming and floating and chatting in the sun. (No photos as I locked my phone up in the changing room!) As we were leaving, we noticed a sign pointing downstairs to an area where you can actually see the mineral hot spring that supplies the water.

Hot spring

We went for a final wander through Freiburg to check out the Bächle once more. It was a warm day, so there were often kids splashing or walking in it. I also saw several with little boats on a string that you could pull alongside you as you walked. (I’m still kicking myself I didn’t get one at the market as a souvenir!)

Bächle

More Bächle…

Freiburg

We had just enough time for a late lunch and round of beers at the Hausbrauerei Feierling Biergarten before we had to head to our train and Scott had to start back to Düsseldorf.

Feierling Biergarten

Lovely little excursion to yet another beautiful German town! ❤️

Summer Cycling Update

It’s been a really long time since I updated you on my cycling! I didn’t rack up quite as many kilometers this summer as I’d hoped, mostly because we were travelling whenever we could and the weather was pretty rainy. I’m not far off the pace that I need for my yearlong 1000km goal, but I doubt I’ll get there given that it’s getting cold and we have more travel planned.

Strava Progress - 745/1000 km

I thought I’d share a few of the more notable long rides I’ve done. One back in May was to Messestadt Riem.

My destination was about 15km across Munich. I found a route on Komoot and headed off, with the Snook following on the train. One landmark on the way there was St. Michael’s church in Berg am Laim. I was sweaty so I didn’t go inside, but it was very pretty. For the route, I avoided the main roads and mostly went through residential areas and parks.

Messestadt Riem (literally “Convention City Riem”) is one of Munich’s newest suburbs and was built on the grounds of an old airport. It has a big convention center, of course, as well as a large park with a man-made lake. The Snook had brought us a picnic lunch, so we walked through the park and found a spot to enjoy our sandwiches. Lots of folks were out and about.

Picnic

We walked around the lake and the “beach,” then climbed the “Hügel” (hill) to check out the view. It was surreal to see a lake with folks playing beach volleyball, with snow-capped mountains on the horizon!

I parted with the Snook at the train station and climbed back onboard my bike for the ride home. I went by the more direct route, using the bike path alongside the road.

So all up, that ride was about 30km / 18.5 miles!

In June I did an even longer one of about 35km, heading north along the Isar river and into the far part of the Englischer Garten that I’d never visited before.

It was a warm and sunny day but the clouds were moving in rapidly. (Yes, I wore sunscreen!) This was one of the canals that splits off as the Isar moves north out of the city.

Crossing the Isar

Here’s the river properly, far up near the suburb of Ismaning. I had reached my turnaround point and started heading back when I noticed this rocky little beach and stopped for a rest. There was a large group having a barbecue. That box in the river is actually their cooler filled with drinks! Müncheners love swimming and playing in the Isar.

Party in the Isar

I rode up the east side of the river as I headed out, but for the return journey I crossed over one the bridges so I could head back on the west side.

Crossing over again

Whenever I’m doing these really long rides, I’ve started bringing snacks along so I can refuel at the halfway point. I found a nice little bench and stepped aside for some peanuts, dried fruit, and one of my last Aussie snacks… ❤️

Snack time

Unbeknownst to me, the weather was about to take a turn. A sudden downpour of very cold rain had me huddling under a tree, waiting for it to pass…

Ew, rain!

Fortunately it passed quickly and I was able to finish the ride. The Snook met me at the biergarten so I could celebrate my longest ride yet!

The reward - beer!

A month later I broke my record again, this time on a ride to the southwest through Forstenrieder Park all the way to the village of Buchendorf and back. This was a beautiful ride that I really enjoyed… but it ended in TRAUMA! (More about that in a minute.)

As you can see, I was really excited to head off. I had recently invested in some proper cycling shorts with extra butt padding, so I was feeling pretty confident about this ride.

Cycling update

Part of my planned path was along the Würm River, a small tributary of the Amper that eventually ends in the Danube. It flows through a few small villages, which were all very pretty. These photos were near Gräfelfing.

The route I had was from Komoot again, and it was mostly on paved and gravel bike paths. It’s so gorgeous here. People are always like, why did you move from Australia to Germany? JUST LOOK AT THAT! So much green! I just can’t get enough of it.

Forest

Feeling good

Eventually I popped out of the forest and found myself in cornfields! It was so surreal. Almost felt like Indiana!

Cornfields

I crossed the Würm again at the village of Gauting and saw this historic water wheel (aka Wasserrad) that used to power a local papermill.

Water wheel

This was after I’d passed through Buchendorf, the village that marked the middle-point of the ride. I found myself riding through gentle rolling fields under an amazing blue sky.

Wide open skies

As you can see, I was getting a bit sweaty and tired. I was also feeling some soreness in my bum, despite all the padding in my new shorts. I was starting to suspect that the big cushy seat on the Swapfiets bike wasn’t actually doing me any favours…

Legs

I found a bench in Forstenrieder Park to eat my snack and have a rest.

Snack time

I made the rest of the trip home without incident, and I was feeling pretty proud at having managed such a long ride. NOW WE COME TO THE TRAUMA. Later that night, showered and fed, I was sitting on the sofa in a pair of shorts when the Snook looked at me and said, “Is your leg bleeding?!” Folks, I had a big bruised wound high up on my thigh that had actually burst somehow without me noticing it. It was basically a boil or a saddle sore that had formed from rubbing against the bike seat. We cleaned it up, put on an antiseptic, and bandaged it up. I also took a photo so I could show my doctor the next day via a tele-appointment. “Yeah, you’re fine,” he said. (These German doctors!) So yeah, my first saddle sore. Not fun!

That was basically the impetus I needed to finally buy a new bike. By August, I had found one on Ebay and paid €250 for it. It’s a hybrid (meaning a cross between a road bike and a mountain bike) from local Munich cyclery 2rad.

My bike

It’s a couple years old, so I’ve made some upgrades and modifications since I got it. It originally came with a basket on the back but I took it off since I don’t really use it much. I took it into 2rad for a check-up, and they ended up replacing the brake pads for me and one of the chain links. One of the tire tubes had a leak, so Rodd and I managed to put in a new one. I also bought a new pair of handle grips to replace the old foam ones, and I got a hand-pump that I mounted on the frame. (I carry a patch kit and tire levers in my hydration pack, but I’m thinking of getting a little saddle bag.) It’s so much lighter than the Swapfiets bike! It’s also got more gears (27!) and consequently I’m finding it a lot easier to get up hills. And most importantly, the new seat is narrower and so far I’m finding it a lot more comfortable for long rides.

The first long ride I took her on was – where else? – along the Isar through the Englischer Garten.

Thankfully the flooding we saw earlier in the summer had mostly dissipated by September and the Isar was back to its normal size.

Isar

I couldn’t resist swinging by the Eisbachwelle to see if there were many surfers there. Yeah, there were a lot!

Eisbachwelle

There were also plenty of folks taking advantage of the beautiful weather at the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower) biergarten.

Chinese Tower

Every time I ride through the English Garten, I see something new. This time it was a field of sunflowers waving at me across a fence, and an old hydro power station across the river.

Snack time! You can also see in the background here the last bike-related purchase I made – a helmet. They aren’t required here, but I’m trying to get into the habit of wearing, especially for my long rides. I got a plain white Skullcap helmet and I’ve been having some fun decorating it with stickers.

Snack time

My return trip took me back through the city, and I was happy to see a concert and arts festival happening in the Odeonsplatz. The “net” hanging above is actually an artwork by Janet Echelmann, and it looks incredibly beautiful lit up at night.

Odeonsplatz

As I was waiting at a red light near home, I heard a loud jingling noise. To my delight, all traffic stopped as the Augustiner Bräu bierwagen drove past, pulled by a team of horses and carrying a couple beardy Bavarians in lederhosen. Official Oktoberfest may have been cancelled, but Müncheners still celebrated where they could!

Bierwagen

The last long ride I did was just last weekend, a giant loop that took me on a greatest hits tour of Munich…

The first stop was Nymphenburg Palace, which we visited last year. My route took me across the bridge that crosses the Nymphenburger Kanal. I stopped midway to look back towards the palace. That’s it way off in the distance in that first photo. The other is looking in the opposite direction, down the canal…

There’s also an even smaller offshoot of the canal called the Biedersteiner, and I rode along that for a bit.

Biedersteiner Kanal

My next stop was Olympiapark, site of the Munich Olympics. Honestly, the juxtaposition of the green grass and the blue sky was so stunning I had to stop and take this photo. (Note to self: go back there in the winter and sled down that hill!)

Olympia Park

There were lots of folks enjoying the day, boating on the little lake, and hiking the hills.

Olympiaturm

Eventually I headed home via the Englischer Garten and the Isar, and I finished at the Altstadt. It’s a pedestrian area so I had to walk my bike through the Marienplatz. It was looking very pretty, with baskets of flowers in Autumn colours all along the front.

Marienplatz

I think that pretty much brings you up to date! Here’s a view of my Heat Map of where I’ve ridden in Munich. The really bright areas are from my shorter trips to the office or through the local parks, but all those little red tendrils are from my longer rides. Pretty neat! If you’re on Strava, you can follow me there and see if I managed to make my 1000km goal after all…

Cycling Heat Map

A return to Heidelberg

When I was 17, I spent six weeks in the summer of 1994 living and studying in Krefeld, Germany as part of the Indiana University Honors Program in Foreign Languages. There were about thirty of us, and we spent most of our time living with host families and going to class in the city. We did make a couple of group trips though, including one to Heidelberg to visit the famous Schloß Heidelberg. I remember vividly that it was my favourite castle in all of Germany. (I even posted some photos on my very first website way back in 1996!)

Fast forward 27 years…

On the train

After a Covid “Schnelltest” first thing in the morning, we boarded the train from Munich to Heidelberg. We’d decided to splurge and go for first class (mostly because you can reserve a seat that way), and to our surprise we had an entire compartment to ourselves! The trip was around 4 hours and we got there around lunchtime.

Altstadt

We dropped off our bags at our hotel and headed down into the Altstadt. Heidelberg’s historic main street is quite a bit longer than a lot of other cities, and there were plenty of folks out and about.

Down a side street we caught a glimpse of the Brückentor (bridge gate) at the Alte Brücke (Old Bridge) across the Neckar River. We also stopped to check out the lovely pink stone Jesuitenkirche (Jesuit Church). But our stomachs were growling, and we had a very special destination in mind for lunch…

Schnookeloch

The Schnookeloch! Somehow when we were planning the trip, the Snook noticed that there was a historic guesthouse with his name (sort of) on it. 😂 As near we can figure out, “Schnooke” in the local dialect refers to jokes or pranks, and “Loch” is German for “hole.” Fitting name for a very old student pub!

The burgers and beers were pretty good! On my way to the bathrooms, I noticed that the tables inside were covered in hundreds of student graffiti carvings. Pretty neat! But it was finally time to head to the castle…

Funicular

We took the Heidelberger Bergbahn funicular railway up to the castle. Interestingly, I don’t remember taking that back in 1994. I suspect that our tour bus simply drove us up to the castle. (Any other IUHPFL alumni remember?)

Heidelberg and the Neckar

The castle is a beautiful ruin. As far back as the 19th century there were debates about whether to fully restore it, but thankfully the decision was made it leave most of it alone. The way it looks now is pretty much the same as when Mark Twain visited and wrote about it in 1880. My memories of it from 27 years ago were mostly about being an overly dramatic teenager and swanning about moodily thinking about Romantic poets. (I still can’t quite believe I’m getting to revisit some of these places again.)

After walking around the castle walls, we headed into the courtyard in search of the Großes Fass (Big Barrel), also known as the Heidelberg Tun

Rumoured to be the world’s largest wine barrel, I definitely remembered visiting it back in 1994. But… I remembered it being a lot bigger? Confused, we rounded the next corner and—OH. That’s the big barrel. 😂

Big Barrel

That’s more like it! We made the circuit up the stairs to the viewing platform on the top, then back down the other side. With a Snookums for scale:

Snookums and the big barrel

We headed back out to walk around the gardens behind the castle. The views of the city were glorious. The castle isn’t really as high up the hill as I’d remembered. The weather was overcast but hot.

Heidelberg

We headed back to the funicular to go even higher. The castle is at 120m above sea level, but you can ride up to Molkenkur at 289m and then switch to the older line to go up to the Königstuhl at 550m. The old line is slower and smaller and doesn’t run as frequently, so we had to wait a while to board. The trip on the upper section takes about 10 minutes and at times you’re climbing a 41% grade! 😳

But it’s all worth it for that view…

View from Königstuhl

There’s a hotel at the top of the mountain, as well as an observatory, a falconry (?!), a kids’ fairytale park, and many walking trails. We decided to follow the family walking trail, marked with these rather creepy signs…

Nature trail signs

We saw very few other people.

Snookums

The family trail was a big loop and had some rustic play areas. The Snook found a brilliant orange slug and took a photo of it. There were also several creepy structures built out of old tree branches, which gave off a very witchy fairytale vibe.

We caught the funicular back down the mountain and walked through the Altstadt again. Back down by the Alte Brücke we patiently waited our turn to take a photo with the famous Brückenaffe (Bridge Monkey), who’s meant to bring you luck. 🐵

Monkeys
I should mention that I made heavy use of this blog post for planning our time in Heidelberg. We took the author’s advice and headed to the Vetter’s Alt Heidelberger-Brauhaus for dinner, and everything was delicious!

Vetter’s Alt Brauhaus

That was a pretty big day. My smartwatch says we did nearly 19K steps! We headed back to the hotel to crash.

The next morning, we took advantage of the fact that Heidelberg is a university town to have a hipster cafe breakfast at deer. (Honestly, going out for breakfast is the #1 thing I’ve missed in Corona lockdown.) The Snook was very, very happy with his pourover…

Cafe breakfast

After breakfast we headed back to the Altstadt and finally crossed the Alte Brücke.

Crossing the bridge

Our goal was the Philosophenweg (Philosopher’s Way), a walking path high up on the other side of the Neckar. To get to it, we decided to climb the Schlangenweg (Snake’s Way). This is an old narrow vineyard path that climbs nearly 90m as it snakes back and forth up the hillside, with stone walls on either side of you. It was actually pretty gruelling, and thankfully there are a couple spots with benches to stop and take in the view.

We even saw sheep!

Sheep above the Neckar

We finally reached the Philosophenweg, which was thankfully flat. We meandered past more vineyards and gardens with lovely flowers. At one point, there was an outlook with some seats, and an old man was playing the guitar. It was heavenly.

We slowly made our way back down to city level. At the end of the Philosophenweg is the Philosophengarten, which was a riot of colourful blooms.

Philosophengarten

I took advantage of the backdrop to take some cute photos of us.

We walked past many university buildings and charming houses. This one was one of my favourites. It has a poem painted on the side:

House

Behüt dies Haus
von Wetter und Wind
und Menschen die langweilig sind.

“Watch over this house
from weather and wind
and people who are boring.”

We checked out of the hotel and stashed our bags in a locker at the train station. Then we hopped on a bus and headed to the nearby town of Schwetzingen. This hadn’t been part of our original plan, but I realised when looking at my old website that the IUHPFL trip had included a stop at Schloß Schwetzingen and the Snook cleverly figured out how to get there. More nostalgia! When we got to Schwetzingen, we had a quick lunch at a Mexican restaurant near the palace.

Mexican lunch

Then we headed over to the palace…

Schloss Schwetzingen

I remember that, as a 17-year-old from Indiana, stepping into that formal garden felt like Alice going into Wonderland. I’d never seen anything like it in my entire life.

Schwetzingen gardens

The garden was established just as the more formal French style was giving way to the English landscape garden, so it’s unique in the way it tries to marry the two.

Geometry

While the central vista features strict geometrical beds, topiary, and large fountains, the sides and back have more rambly, natural feeling paths with hidden grottoes and follies.

Pan’s grotto

I was most looking forward to The Temple of Apollo. I remember spending a big chunk of my time in the garden back in 1994 having lunch on the lawn in front of the temple, swooning about and pretending to be a pagan. It looked exactly as I’d remembered.

Temple of Apollo

We were delighted to find out you can actually go under/inside the monument and peek out behind the fountain.

Snookums in the fountain

We also came across the Vogelbad (bird bath), an over-the-top circular aviary built around a fountain, where dozens of bird sculptures perched around the roof spit water down into the center.

Vogelbad

In the alcoves around the sides were many living birds, including quite a few from Australia! Here’s the Snook chatting with the budgerigars.

Budgies

The far end of the palace gardens have a lake of sorts with little brooks with bridges over them. It’s all very charming.

The lake

We noticed that the Snook bore a resemblance to the statue of the Danube river god…

Snookums the river god

…and happily, we found my doppelgänger in a statue of Athena. She’s clearly taking a selfie! 😂

Athena selfie

Rain was threatening, so it was time to leave the palace and catch the bus back to Heidelberg. We collected our suitcases and then hopped on the train back to Munich, getting back late Sunday night. I honestly never expected to get to visit these places again in my life, so it was such a special and unique treat to see these sights again! ❤️

A Day on the Chiemsee

After only glimpsing the Chiemsee from a distance on our trip to Salzburg, we knew we needed to head back on a nice day. It’s a large freshwater lake with several islands you can visit, including one with a palace! So when a suitable weather forecast presented itself a few weeks back, we caught the train southeast from Munich towards Prien am Chiemsee

Chiemsee-Bahn

But not this train, of course. We took a modern train from Munich. This little green steam train is actually the Chiemsee-Bahn, which runs about a mile from the main station in Prien down to the edge of the lake. You could easily walk that distance, but we couldn’t resist getting to ride on heritage-listed choo-choo!

On the Chiemsee-Bahn

The train lets you out right at the water and then the engine detaches, spins around on a turntable, and hooks up to head back the other direction.

Prien-Stock terminus

All of the Chiemsee ferries and cruises depart from this landing, and there are restaurants, a Ferris wheel, boat rental, a promenade, a swimming center, and lots of folks just hanging out, enjoying the weather. The view of the lake was really spectacular.

Chiemsee

We hopped on a ferry and headed to the Herreninsel (“Men’s island”), the largest one and the one with the palace.

Snookums on a ferry

When you get to the island, you end up at a visitor center next to an old Augustinian Monastery. There’s about a 20 minute walk to the Herrenchiemsee Palace, or you can take a horse carriage ride. We went for the walk, strolling through a beautiful shady wood…

The walk to Herrenchiemsee

We eventually reached a break in the woods and stepped out into a formal garden, straight out of Versailles! 😳

Herrenchiemsee

It’s not accidental. It was built by King Ludwig II as the third and last of his famous castles (after Neuschwanstein and Linderhof), and he deliberately modelled it after Versailles. Dude had a fixation with Louis XIV! Several of the fountains are copies of ones at the French palace. (They weren’t running constantly; it seems like they were going every half an hour on the day we were there.)

The only way to see inside the palace is to book a tour, and I was lucky enough to get us on one of the few English versions. It was us and two other couples, and the tour guide took us inside and through all of the completed rooms. Unfortunately photography wasn’t allowed, but you can see some pictures on the Wikipedia page. One thing I found fascinating was that Ludwig had his architects copy Versailles pretty closely, but he also built in secret “modern” technology, like central heating from furnaces under the palace. He also had a trap door under his dining table, which cranked up and down like an elevator so it could magically appear with food on it! The Hall of Mirrors was spectacular, as was the world’s largest Meissen porcelain chandelier. Sadly, Ludwig ran out of money before the palace was finished, and he only spent like ten days there before he mysteriously died at 40. (Nowadays they use the unfinished part to host art exhibitions.)

View towards Chiemsee

Leaving the palace, you look across the sunken formal garden all the way to the Chiemsee in the distance!

After a wander back to ferry landing, we caught another boat over to the Fraueninsel (“ladies’ island”).

Ferry to Fraueninsel

While the Herreninsel is mainly a tourist destination, the Fraueninsel has a Benedictine convent and a little village of about 300. It’s car-free, so we had a lovely time walking around and checking out all the little houses and shops. I noticed that several of the places had rental details on them, and I can’t imagine a more beautiful place to spend a week just chilling out. We were also delighted to spot some familiar flags. There are Antipodeans living on Fraueninsel! 🇦🇺🇳🇿

We took another small cruise to end the day, but we were getting a bit sunburnt and tired at this point!

Snook on a boat

To get home, we disembarked at Prien Stock and took the Chiemsee-Bahn back to Prien train station, before catching the regional train back to Munich. Lovely day out on the water!

Darlow Pants

I sewed pants! 👖

For a really long time, trousers have been my Mount Everest as a sewist. I’ve sewed lots of dresses, shirts, and even shorts, but never a pair of actual trousers. I made a valiant but cursed attempt last year at a muslin for the Moji pants by Seamwork before accepting that a drawstring waist was never going to work with my shape…

Then a few months back I started to see the Darlow pants from In the Folds popping up in my Instagram feed. “No way,” I thought. Those curving seams?! These aren’t straight up-and-down pants; they have multiple curvy pieces that swoop around the legs and create volume. It seemed like jumping several levels of difficulty. The style was also slouchier and baggier than what I normally wear. But then I clicked on the #darlowpants hashtag, and I was able to see them on different body types and in different materials, and I started to think, “…maybe??”

I bought the pattern. Back in Australia I’d purchased several meters of a soft drill-type fabric for future pants — I never remember to write down the fabric I buy — and I’d shipped it all the way here. It seemed a shame to let it go to waste. Why not give it a go?

I decided to go with View B, which is the less voluminous version and has less pattern pieces. I cut a straight Size I and printed out all the pattern pieces and assembled. Just as I was about to lay out my fabric for cutting, I realised there was one crucial modification I needed to make right from the start – lengthening the legs! The pattern is drafted for someone 5’7”, and I’m 5’10”. So I added three inches at all of the length/shorten lines. This isn’t as straightforward as on normal pants, as the curving lines mean you have to redraw some curves and then “walk the seams” to ensure they still line up. (Thankfully the designer has provided a Fit Kit which walks you through several common modifications.)

Finally it was time to cut the fabric and start sewing! The first thing you assemble are the back panels, and I had a lot of fun using my special overlocker foot and stitch to finish the raw edges. Once the panels are sewn, you then create the rear welt pockets. I decided to make them a design feature by using some scraps of paisley fabric. The pattern instructions are pretty straightforward and suggest several places where you should hand-baste just to keep everything all lined up. Everything went well until I got to Step 23, when I got confused and just couldn’t figure out how to secure the welt. I ended up emailing the designer, who helpfully sent me a video that explained everything. The key is that Piece 17 (the pocket lining) needs to be folded up under the back panel and out of the way for Step 23. Then you’re meant to fold the welt on Piece 18 and then sew along it. If you look at the photo here, you can just see a line of white stitching at the bottom of each welt. That’s where I did it WRONG. Mine isn’t securing anything; it’s actually meant to go through both layers of the paisley fabric. Oh well – I’ll get it right on the next pair! (Note: the bodgy red stitching along the top is just hand-basting to keep the pocket flat while you assemble the rest of the pants.)

Welt Pockets

The rest of the pants assembly was pretty easy – even those big curvy bits! – and you end up inserting nice deep pockets into the side seams. Then it was time to insert the zip. I’ve sewn zippers before, but only side-seam ones. I decided that I really wanted a quality metal zip rather than futzing about with crappy nylon ones. I made a pilgrimage to a local haberdasher – which was amazing – and got everything I needed. I was nervous about inserting it, but the instructions were great and again had you baste things together to keep everything lined up. And guess what? IT LOOKS LIKE A REAL PROFESSIONAL ZIP!

The waistband assembly was pretty simple. You have the option of binding the inside edge with bias binding or enclosing it within the waistband. I had some leftover binding from a previous project so I went with that, and it actually makes it look really nice. Then I just needed to add a buttonhole, sew on a button, and also sew on a trouser hook for the tab. Here’s what it looks like on the inside…

Inside out waist

And here are the welt pockets from the inside as well.

Welt Pockets

The final step was to finish and sew on the hem facings to the legs. And then they were DONE!

As a wearable muslin, I’m pretty happy with these! I think the three inches I added to the length was just right. There are definitely some fitting issues remaining though. You can’t tell in the photo, but I think I actually need to go down a size in the waist (but leave the size through the hip) – they’re actually quite loose around my middle. (And since there are no belt loops, you can’t really cinch it up.) I also think I need to add a bit more room to the seat, possibly by extending the back crotch point. But still – entirely wearable PANTS! I’m looking forward to making the next pair even better. 🙂

Wolfie! A Trip to Salzburg

It’s summer in Deutschland, and now that we’ve had our first vaccine shot, we feel a bit more comfortable travelling again. Two weeks ago we headed out of Munich for the first time since the Zugspitze last year. And where did we go? Salzburg, Austria.

On the trainWe actually started the day with a Covid Schnelltest at our local shopping center. Austria has lifted a lot of its restrictions, but we knew that it was important to have a negative test result. By the time we got to the Hauptbahnhof (central train station) 20min later, the results were in our email inboxes. Protip: Bavaria offers a special discount ticket called the Bayern Ticket, which lets you ride regional trains and most public transport through Bavaria. It also gets you to Salzburg, which is about two hours from Munich. The weather forecast was for clouds, but it was a beautiful sunny day as we headed southeast towards the mountains, whizzing through idyllic German villages and rolling green fields…

First glimpse of SalzburgWe crossed the Salzach River and got our first glimpse of the Festung Hohensalzburg (“High Salzburg Fortress”) atop the Festungsberg as we pulled into our destination. I had planned some activities based on this blog post, including booking tickets up to the castle. We had a few hours to kill though, so we started by walking to the Altstadt along the river. We crossed over at the Marko-Feingold-Steg, a pedestrian bridge decorated by visitors with thousands of padlocks.

Snookums on the Marko-Feingold-StegWe headed to Getreidegasse (“Grain Lane”), a busy shopping street in the heart of the old town. It’s narrow and historic and super charming, even despite the fact that many of the shops were the same as you’d see in any major city. It was also surprisingly busy, and I found myself feeling a little wary of all the unmasked folks! (It’s been a long lockdown. 🙁)

GetreidegasseIt was lunchtime and we were hungry, so we headed to the Zipfer Bierhaus. We got a table out the back in University Square and enjoyed a couple plates of sausages along with some local Austrian brew…

Zipfer BierhausOur next stop was back on Getreidegasse – Mozarts Geburtshaus (Mozart’s birthplace). It was fairly empty at the time, and we enjoyed wandering the rooms and  learning a bit more about his life and his family. Did you know that Mozart’s sister Maria Anna (nicknamed “Nannerl” by the family) was also a musical child prodigy, but because she was a girl, she eventually had to stop touring and performing? (I found myself feeling so angry on her behalf.) I was also surprised to see that pianos in Mozart’s day had the black and white keys reversed!

Mozarts GeburtshausWe ended the tour in the gift shop, of course, where I bought a cool lenticular magnet to add to our collection. They had a TV set up showing scenes from Amadeus, and I confessed to the Snook that I’d never seen it. That was going to have to be rectified, I decided…

Mozarts GeburtshausAnd then it was time to head up to the fortress! We caught the Festungsbahn (funicular) up to the top and were greeted with stunning views across the city to the mountains beyond.

View from Festung HohensalzburgThe day was turning out pretty hot, so we headed into the Zeughaus (Armory) Museum to cool off and learn about medieval weaponry. They had a lot of interactive exhibits, including a kiosk where you could picture yourself as a knight. The Snook also enjoyed creating virtual gunpowder and seeing how far he could fire a cannon.

The real highlight of the Festung is the view over the city. How stunning is this? This is why we came to Europe. ❤️

Me and Snookums It really was quite hot though. 😅 We were also getting tired from all the walking so we caught a quick rest in the shade.

Catching some shadeOur tickets also included access to the Prince’s Chambers, the richly appointed staterooms installed by Prince-Archbishop Leonhard von Keutschach. My favourite part was the Golden Hall, with its 17m-long beam, carved columns, and decorated ceiling.

Golden HallAnd from every window, an amazing view…

MountainsWe were really flagging by this point, so we caught the funicular back down to the Altstadt. In need of refreshment, we headed to the nearby Stiegl-Keller where I was delighted to sample their Grapefruit Radler in the rooftop biergarten. What a way to end the day!

Stiegl-KellerWe walked back to the Hauptbahnhof and caught the return train to Munich, exhausted and happy. What a perfect day! Can’t wait to do more exploring over the next few months…

OH! And the first thing we did back in Munich? Watch Amadeus, of course. I loved it. ❤️

duckyPad

I’ve been a Twitch streamer for six months now. Isn’t that weird? I’ve noticed that a lot of the really fancy streamers use an elgato Stream Deck as part of their setup. This is essentially a “macropad” – a little programmable keyboard that you can set up so that clicking a button kicks off a series of actions. People use them for adding sounds and graphics to their streams, replying to comments, even controlling lighting and cameras. They’re not cheap though, and as much as I coveted one, I didn’t think I’d use it enough to justify the expense.

Then somehow I found out about the duckyPad. This is an Open Source “do-it-yourself” mechanical macropad, and all up the components come to about half the cost of the Stream Deck. It has a very simple little scripting language you use to program each key, and it has a little screen that shows what each one does. You can have 32 different “profiles” (set of 15 keys), which means up to 480 different key actions. And it also lights up! I decided to order one and explore what I could do with it.

Here’s what it looks like straight from the box if you order the standard components:

duckyPad unassembled

Putting it together was actually very simple following the instructions in the Assembly Guide. Man, those tiny 2mm standoffs are awfully small though, even for my hands! The only difficulty I had was getting the keyboard switches inserted. They required a little more pressure than I expected, and I was really paranoid that I’d break one or bend one of the pins. As it turns out, when I had the thing together and turned it on, one of the keys was indeed dead. I pulled it off and saw that, yep, I’d bent one of the pins flat. Luckily the Snook whipped out a pair of pliers and managed to straighten it out, and once reinserted it worked fine. So yeah, the instructions say over and over to be careful for bent pins, and now I understand why!

duckyPad

The duckyPad comes pre-programmed with a couple different profiles, but most of them were Windows-specific. I installed the Configurator app and used the provided USB card reader to plug in the SD card. Then I was able to start creating new profiles and scripts.

duckyPad configurator

The duckyPad is literally just sending off key presses, just like you’re typing on your normal keyboard. So anything you can do via keyboard shortcut, you can trigger with the duckyPad. The critical thing for Mac users is invoking Spotlight with “COMMAND SPACE”. That’s what you use to open apps and change focus. I also found that often the duckyPad is too fast and I needed to insert a DELAY before subsequent key presses (like between opening the browser and typing in a URL).

One annoyance is that some apps’ keyboard shortcuts only work while the app is in focus. If you’re using Windows, there’s an “Auto-switcher app” that will automatically switch profiles based on which app is foregrounded. There’s currently no Mac version (someone is working on it), so I’ve found it helpful to have a dedicated key that switches focus back to the desired app (especially when presenting or streaming).

I’ve spent a few weeks now tweaking and refining my setup, and I keep finding new things to automate. With some of these, I just cannot remember the keyboard shortcut so having a button helps. With others, I’m finding that I already have the muscle memory for the keyboard shortcut so I may not need the macro. The ones that get the most use by far are volume control (much better than the stupid Touchbar on my Mac) and the “mute” shortcut (used to invoke Mutify and turn on/off my microphone), so I’ve reproduced those as the bottom row of keys across multiple profiles.  But read on to see what I’ve got so far…

And if you have any suggestions for things to add, please let me know!

Read more →

My first ever GPS art!

The AWS Summit EMEA is coming up next week, and a few of my colleagues created funny videos to drum up excitement. Seb documented his preparations…

As did Darko, but a bit more retro. 🙂

Isa did a super cute one with her pupper Jago, a “Solutions Barkitecht”. 😂

My first impulse was to do something similar for mine, but of course include myself surrounded by knitting projects. But the more I thought about it, the more boring that felt. I knew I really needed to raise the level of creativity.

Teaser video plan

And then I had a flash of inspiration – GPS art! This is where you run/walk/cycle a particular path and the GPS path in your tracking app draws a picture. What if I could cycle my way across the AWS logo?? I immediately started searching for an app, hoping there was a way to automatically plan out a route. But guess what? Tech has not cracked this particular problem yet. My only option was to do it the hard way.

I opened up Google Maps and realised immediately I was going to have a problem. Munich is an old city, and it doesn’t have a nice rectangular grid for its streets. It’s also got the Altstadt (the medieval city center) and a river running right through it, all of which really limited my options. I decided to focus on looking for something suitable for the smile part. It probably took me half an hour to find a nice big curving bit to the south-east. I used the drawing tools in Google’s “My Maps” to draw on the map and plot out the rest of the logo. Not too bad! All I needed then was to join it up into an actual cycling map that I could follow.

For that I used Strava, which I’ve been using to track my cycling for a few years. It has a feature where you can create your own Routes and it will help plot out the path. I ended up creating it as a “walking” route because that gave me finer-grained control over which streets I could take. (When you select “cycling,” it will push you towards cycleways – which is normally great, but for this I was willing to forego that.) It turns out this caused me one slight issue, which I’ll get to shortly. But pretty quickly I had my route, as well as an estimated distance – 21.8km. Yikes! And that didn’t even include getting from the start/finish to my house. I knew this was going to take me a couple hours to complete.

On the day of the ride, I had the Snook film me getting ready. I filled up my hydration backpack and wore my new padded cycling pants. Then I was off! I have a mount for my iPhone on the handlebars, which allows me to easily see the map as well as film footage of both the road and my face as I’m riding. Everything went pretty well, until…

Yeah. My route had me turning left… onto that bridge way above my head. There were stairs, but at that point I was in no state to drag my bike up there. This is the downside to using a walking route! So I had to improvise a bit, going down a side-street and walking my bike along a path to get back onto the route.

The only other mishap was a wrong turn at the base of the second point on the “w”, which I thankfully caught quickly. Unfortunately Strava doesn’t allow you to remove points afterwards, but it was small enough that it doesn’t really detract. On the upside, I also discovered that when you “pause” tracking on Strava and then “un-pause,” it will draw a straight line between those points. I realised I could use this strategically to create diagonals and smooth out some of the rougher bits along the “s”.

As I got back to the house, I messaged the Snook to come out and meet me so he could film one final bit of me arriving and saying “I’m getting ready for the AWS Summit. Are you?” I was pretty puffed at that point, and the hydration pack was completely empty. 😅

So here’s the final cycling workout!

Then I used iMovie to cut together all the footage I’d created, along with a final screenshot of the map. I was really pleased with it and sent it to a few folks. One of them loved it and was really enthusiastic, but the other reactions were muted. It was only when I probed them further that I realised they didn’t get it! They weren’t seeing the logo at all. Once I pointed it out they could see it, but without that context it just looked like I was riding around Munich aimlessly for no reason. 😂 So I had to do a lot of explaining, including for the lovely marketing folks who cut together the final version with music and graphics.

Anyway, here it is! My first ever attempt at GPS art. And if you’d like to attend the AWS Summit next week (it’s free!), you can register here: https://amzn.to/3fbS1wA.

Geimpft!

The Corona situation has been improving in Germany, mainly because the vaccination rate has been steadily increasing. Supply seems to have increased and we even hit 1M vaccinations in a single day! Here in Bavaria the situation is even better. While the big Immunisation Centers are still adhering to strict prioritisation, the local government recently announced that GPs could administer the vaccine regardless of priority groups. We’re at about 40% of the population with one shot, and 13% fully immunised. And thankfully, the Snook and I can now count ourselves among that 40%!

We were able to get appointments at MVZ Laim through the Doctolib app. The Snook had seen on Reddit that some folks were managing to get appointments there, and he started checking the app periodically. When appointments appeared for Saturday, he jumped on it. Then we debated whether to go through with it or cancel. MVZ were only offering AstraZeneca with a 12-week wait for the second shot (putting us into August for full immunisation). If we cancelled and got an mRNA vaccine, we’d be able to get the second shot sooner. Ultimately we decided it was better to have some protection now rather than risk waiting any longer.

At MVZ there was a steady stream of people in for their vaccinations. We checked in and were happy to find that the staff swiftly switched to English once they heard our accents. We were asked if we’d brought our safety waivers (acknowledging the risk of the AZ shot), which we had. Then we were directed into a waiting room. After a few minutes, the doctor called Rodd but realised we were together and brought me in as well. We had forgotten to bring our “Impfung Ausweis” (vaccination card), which is a little yellow book where your doctor records all your vaccinations. He instead gave us a form that recorded our first shots and made us promise to bring the Ausweis next time. Then he swiftly gave us the shots in our left arms and directed us to another waiting room for 15 minutes in case we had any adverse reactions. Then we were allowed to head home.

I honestly teared up a bit when he gave me the shot. I haven’t been particularly worried about myself through the pandemic; it was more the thought of how much human ingenuity and hard work and sacrifice had gone into this massive effort around the world. SCIENCE, YEAH! Humanity is amazing. ❤️

For that first day, I didn’t really have any side effects other than perhaps a mild headache. By the evening though, the Snook was responding as he does to any viral infection: fever and chills to the point of teeth chattering. During the night my usual response kicked in, with a fever, muscle aches, and my arm getting very sore. We both spent the next day resting and hydrating. Now on Day 2 we’re feeling better, but both of us still have slightly elevated temperatures. Our arms are still sore.

Still worth it.